ACS 65C - Mk 1 Cooper S

[richardACS]

The shell identity badge on the new front panel

[richardACS]

There were quite a few things to get prepared before the car went off for painting:

Body number remade as the original was lost during metal works - arghh and then placed in drivers floor.
Seam covers - shot blast and primer on the originals - not much rust actually
The spare wheel board - reattachment of the three brackets
Holes drilled for rear of remote gear change bushings
Badge identity tag by radiator
Fitting of moustache
Blasting and primer of door hinges with new bushings
The original bonnet was found to have had some carburettor vents cut in at some point - the surface was difficult to prepare nicely so a new bonnet was obtained with the hinge/prop section from the original fitted.

[richardACS]

Finally it was time to get the shell delivered to Ian Slark in Bristol (last November) for painting with the request to keep it as period looking as possible. It has yet to be mopped but will wait until the build up is complete in case there is any damage during assembly.

[richardACS]

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Thanks to Peter a while back mentioning the bar through the steering column brackets for transportation - pole can just be seen at the front. This was a nerve wracking experience getting the shell tied down and all the loose items such as boot, bonnet, doors, seam covers well protected - but more so whether the shell was settled in the trailer as there was very little room at the back particularly and trailers seem to bounce alot on our rough roads. However despite a 130 mile journey there was not a scratch to be found - phew...

[richardACS]

Turning toward the items to be rechromed - the rear windows do have damage to the joining tongues, screw threads have snapped in the threads - so hope to drill and re tap or even make new joining strips but would appreciate others experience with these?

The bumpers do have a few dings and dents but as only stainless seem to be available I hope these can be made good.

The door handles are in pretty good shape but will be rechromed - would welcome others experience but intending to drop these in at ACF Howell in Birmingham

[Costafortune]

Tweed grey is such a nice colour - it looks good.

[Fanfaniracing]

Concrats to that colour combination !

[richardACS]

Is it one of those colours that has full circled back into fashion I wonder?

Would be interesting to see what the favourite colour choice happened to be back in the day - my hunch would be red/black?

[mk1]

Almond Green has always been a very popular colour too.

My guess is that the top 3 would be
Red / Black
Almond Green / OEW
OEW / Black

[richardACS]

I would welcome others thoughts on how best to sound proof the shell - I noticed on SOS the 100th edition covering the electric MGB that a new company was advertised as 'Skinz' then there is 'Dynamat' of course and 'Kilmat' do these make a difference if one then follows up with the good old felt and carpet set?

The area that possibly needs the most help would be the firewall both sides? but also the roof? doors? wheel arches? floors? bonnet?

My recent mini experience is in a Mk 2 Cooper s which had been converted to dry suspension and had no firewall soundproof (engine side) or original airbox and the general amount of noise was actually such that conversation above 40 was quite difficult, maybe I have simply forgotten just how much things have moved on.

I'm hoping that the hydrolastic set up will help both noise and comfort....

[richardACS]

In regards to the hydrolastic - the front to rear hydrolastic pipes of the originals are actually in really good shape with the rubber mounting protectors still wrapped around the pipes, but they are visually unsightly with surface rust.

I have bought a new set from MS but they are in that cupro finish not a Zinc plate and also quite light (I guess no problem with that). I have first tried to get the original replated but so far no one has a long enough tank and back in my mind is that someone said the new ones do not fit that well? So would welcome some thoughts on how others might have dealt with this?

[mk1]

The new ones don't fit well, but they do "fit" just takes a bit of work & manipulation to make them do so.

New Cupro Nickel ones are always going to be better than even slightly rusty old ones.

[richardACS]

Actually Mark the pipes are just straight cupro not even the nickel finish and look like the soft brake line material....

[roger mcnab]

hi when i did my side windows i had to replace 1 joining strip as i had aspare i took the strip from it and used a short alloy pop rivet and tapped it a bit with a small hammer and it looks like a normal rivet and did not foul the glass the rubber was a bit of a struggle but fitted
cheers roger

[mk1]

Still, they won't rot like steel ones do.

[Peter Laidler]

......and simplicity itself to bend to shape - or the shape you require - with a plumbers 3/8" hand held pipe bender. Cupro nickel is the material mix incidentally.......and simplicity itself to bend to shape - or the shape you require - with a plumbers 3/8" hand held pipe bender*. For longevity, that's the way to go!
(* tell me if you want to borrow mine for the cost of the postage and a pint of Fosters!)

[richardACS]

Thank you Peter, a kind offer - fortunately I do have a pipe bender.

I was in your neck of the woods last Wednesday visiting Zircotec - the manifold treatment people. Have you tried their coatings? I didn't know where but is the old MG works nearby?

[richardACS]

hi when i did my side windows i had to replace 1 joining strip as i had aspare i took the strip from it and used a short alloy pop rivet and tapped it a bit with a small hammer and it looks like a normal rivet and did not foul the glass the rubber was a bit of a struggle but fitted
cheers roger

Thank you Roger...

[richardACS]

For all sorts of reasons and excuses! It has been a long process getting this car to completion but I've now set a target for Beaulieu...

Everything is more or less ready for re assembly, as I didn't take this car apart I have little reference to the order.

From other posts I can see that some prefer to build up the subframes off the car but I think I will keep them light (and more easy to manoeuvre) by fitting bare subframes and fitting up once on the car - I have a number of questions where some guidance will be helpful.

1) Do the subframes have some sort of vibration pad between the frames and body? if so what material/thickness and where are they placed ?

2) My order for phase 1 assembly therefore:

a) Steering rack
b) Hydrolastic pipes - what material used these days to wrap around the pipes to protect pipes from body clips?
c) Fuel and Brake lines
d) Test and fit hydro units to subframes (which have the red band) which I believe are rally spec? are these good for fast road use?
e) Fit and align the sub frames - in days past one would follow minis crabbing down the road - was this simply poor alignment?

[AndyPen]

They had the pads originally but I don't think many people fit them these days?? Rust traps I'd imagine?

I fitted the rack after the brake and fuel lines (dry car), and used thin wall rubber protectors here and there. Somerford sell these for example:

https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/sleeve- ... protection

Can't comment on the hydro I'm afraid as it rarely stayed on our cars.

Crabbing was rather common wasn't it? Back in the day we used shims as a remedy, probably because our cars were bent after our harsh use on rally and such like.