Body and Paint Qs

[TECH396]

I'm almost done with the metal work process, and I'll be moving to body and paint soon.
I have a 3 part question for all the experienced body/painters out there.
1) Paint the 4 vertical seam strips separate from the body, then install all retainer clips & strips? What's the process here?
2) The front panel to the wing seam, and Wing to Scuttle seam . Did the factory use seam sealer there? What products are you using here?
3) Roof gutter sealer....... What product are you using, and are there any tips to achieving a factory looking texture?
I was fortunate to not need any bodywork in these areas
I know there are other questions, but If you can share any experiences (+or -) I'd love to hear them.

Thanks in advance...
Paul

[Peter Laidler]

I can only tell you what I did. First, never, ever, not never if at all possible screw self tappers directly into the body. Always file out the screw hole square. After paint, insert a plastic 'nut' thinggy into the hole and screw into that.

You can't avoid the vertical stripo clips digging into the vertical strip on the car or within the strip itself. It's the very nature of the beast! I painted mine, fitted the clips and painted again. Fitted the side strips, knocked them into place and then painted the car. After that I sprayyed supertrol or waxoyl down the very small opening at the top and just let it run wild inside the vertical strip. It obviously worked because 30 years later the strips and body are still rust free.

As a matter of interest, I did the same to my brand new Rover Cooper Sport, new in 2001. Still rust free. The real irony was that true to Rover lack of care and thought, the vertical strips were still unpainted - even in year 2000.......... The real pro's will come in with mors, better and sensible methods too.

[TECH396]

I can only tell you what I did. First, never, ever, not never if at all possible screw self tappers directly into the body. Always file out the screw hole square. After paint, insert a plastic 'nut' thinggy into the hole and screw into that.

Thanks for your input Peter
When you mentioned self tappers.
I assume your talking about areas ( such as) the grill to front panel, that you're suggesting filing square to accept a nylon retainer? " Thingy" similar to the ones used for Headlamp buckets and voltage reg.?

[TECH396]

I can only tell you what I did. First, never, ever, not never if at all possible screw self tappers directly into the body. Always file out the screw hole square. After paint, insert a plastic 'nut' thinggy into the hole and screw into that.



Thanks for your input Peter
When you mentioned self tappers.
I assume your talking about areas ( such as) the grill to front panel, that you're suggesting filing square to accept a nylon retainer? " Thingy" similar to the ones used for Headlamp buckets and voltage reg.?

[Daz1968]

I trial fitted seam strips and modified them so they fitted perfect, then painted car and seam strips separate, then as I knew they fitted easily I fitted them and put some seam sealer at top only and then touched this up with a coat of paint by brush, at least then everything has some protection. Front panel and scuttle seams I put seam sealer in before paint,

[Peter Laidler]

Yes TECH, square the holes and insert the plastic thinggies. They are readily available but forget for the moment who supplies them. They are a smaller size than the headlight and voltage regulator thinggies. Are easily hidden behind the grille and coincidentally, hold the grille away from the panel by a short distance. No metal to metal contact

Can anyone name the stockist for the plastic thinggies please...... Thanks

[Stopped-again]

Try an eBay search for plastic screw grommet.

[Ronnie]

Try here > https://bresco.com/acatalog/Universal-E ... tml#SID=73

[Peter Laidler]

Yep........, that's the one. Ronnie's got it in one. They sell all of those make-life-easier thinggies. Thanks Ronnie

[AndyPen]

I also had the car painted and the seam strips done separately once they had been trial fitted. I did try replica strip but the fit was poor with some shaping missing, so was pleased to find some excellent original ones at a show to use.

Once I had trial fitted them again, and ever so slightly pinched them where they seemed wide (finger strength only) I decided against clips and just carefully used some tiger seal in 3 - 4 key touching places instead. Pushed them on and taped them up to stay put... and left them for 24 hrs.

They seem pretty solid and like Peter suggests, they now have Supertrol wax down them too.

I have two original and as far as I know untouched 60s cars here, and they both have some kind of sealer in the joints. I sparingly used the same white Tigel Seal (white car) and brush painted some top coat carefully over it to check for bubbles, this was before paint. One bit didn't have the depth of the others (my mistake), so I added another thin layer and brush painted over that a few days later. You do need a very steady hand and luckily as an airbrush artist of the past I'm used to that

[TECH396]

I also had the car painted and the seam strips done separately once they had been trial fitted. I did try replica strip but the fit was poor with some shaping missing, so was pleased to find some excellent original ones at a show to use.

Once I had trial fitted them again, and ever so slightly pinched them where they seemed wide (finger strength only) I decided against clips and just carefully used some tiger seal in 3 - 4 key touching places instead. Pushed them on and taped them up to stay put... and left them for 24 hrs.

They seem pretty solid and like Peter suggests, they now have Supertrol wax down them too.

I have two original and as far as I know untouched 60s cars here, and they both have some kind of sealer in the joints. I sparingly used the same white Tigel Seal (white car) and brush painted some top coat carefully over it to check for bubbles, this was before paint. One bit didn't have the depth of the others (my mistake), so I added another thin layer and brush painted over that a few days later. You do need a very steady hand and luckily as an airbrush artist of the past I'm used to that

Thanks Andy and to all that replied. Any others that can add any of their experience is appreciated.
PS. I'm not sure how to add my replies outside of the quoted area. Update.... It worked this time

[TECH396]

Still searching for answers for what are people using for seam sealer. The same material is used throughout, including Wing to scuttle, Wing to front panel, and the roof gutters. Any advice ?

[trevorhp]

Tiger seal is widely used in the trade and is available in Black White and Grey from most motor factors.
I have use it on many occasions and always been very happy with it.
Can be overpainted with almost any good quality paint.
Other products are available

[nick@dunsdale]

Re the seam covers

after the car body and the seam covers are primed
i would blow a lick of paint over the seams
Then fit the seam covers
And paint the car with the seam covers fitted
No chance of damage to the car body or the seam covers trying to fit them after paint

On the sealer type tiger seal is popular but it is a PU sealer and it will do the job without doubt.
Sometimes an MS polymer sealer is a better option as it doesnt contain solvents so it will not shrink
And doesn't go brittle and will remain permanently elastic

This is good stuff

https://www.innotec.eu/oth/en/products/inno-seal/p1047


.

[Andrew1967]

I used Tiger seal on my seams with no issues.

Seam trims .. paint the body and the seam trims separately, then fit the seam trims in readiness for final paint. Blob of Tiger seal on the top of the seam trim to body as per original.