Hi All
I have a dry rear subframe where one of the threaded studs has sheared off. This looks like it goes quite a way into the subframe. Can this be fixed or is this a new subframe? If it was a matter of cutting off and re-welding a new stud on not a problem but assume the length that goes into the subframe is required to give this stud extra strength and less bend?
Fixing rear sub frame
- colonel mustard
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Fixing rear sub frame
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- Peter Laidler
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Re: Fixing rear sub frame
Unless someone comes up with a better answer, this is what I would do. I would clean off square the sheared part. Mount the sub frame under a pillar drill and bore INTO the broken off stud for, say 1", down to just beyond the large dia collar that you see. With me so far.....?
The bored hole would be the DRILLING size of the threaded portion. Halfway down the newly bored shaft, file or cut across so that you have access to the bored hole.
Machine a suitably threaded allen bolt down so that the machined shaft seats tightly into the newly bored hole. Press into bored hole. Mig the new inner threaded shaft to the old stub via the slot (or vee) you filed earlier. Make good. Time taken, 1 hour
The strength is still in the un-threaded stub used to carry the rubber bushes, there is new thread. Don't forget that the threaded part is simply to retain the bushes. It is the unthreaded part of the stud that carries the load.
Anyway, thinking on my feet, that's my answer. But I certainly wouldn't be replacing a good sub frame for a piddling fault like that
The bored hole would be the DRILLING size of the threaded portion. Halfway down the newly bored shaft, file or cut across so that you have access to the bored hole.
Machine a suitably threaded allen bolt down so that the machined shaft seats tightly into the newly bored hole. Press into bored hole. Mig the new inner threaded shaft to the old stub via the slot (or vee) you filed earlier. Make good. Time taken, 1 hour
The strength is still in the un-threaded stub used to carry the rubber bushes, there is new thread. Don't forget that the threaded part is simply to retain the bushes. It is the unthreaded part of the stud that carries the load.
Anyway, thinking on my feet, that's my answer. But I certainly wouldn't be replacing a good sub frame for a piddling fault like that
- colonel mustard
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Re: Fixing rear sub frame
Many thanks Peter
Great breakdown of work required.
That will keep me busy for an hour or so!
Great breakdown of work required.
That will keep me busy for an hour or so!
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- colonel mustard
- 998 Cooper
- Posts: 572
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2019 2:57 pm
- Location: Derbyshire, UK
- Contact:
- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 6399
- Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 5:35 pm
- Location: Abingdon Oxfordshire
- Has thanked: 139 times
- Been thanked: 120 times
Re: Fixing rear sub frame
Same meat, different gravy. A simple bore and weld instead of threading is quicker than threading the blind hole. After all, it ain't likely that you'll want to take it out again