Gearbox problem

[GraemeC]

in fact I'm not actually sure what its purpose is.

It is the interlock to prevent it being possible to select two gears at once.

[imack]

in fact I'm not actually sure what its purpose is.

It is the interlock to prevent it being possible to select two gears at once.

I can see what you're saying but it's not like it's spring biased. It still doesn't prevent you having the gear lever 1/2 way between 1st & 3rd or 2nd & 4th and trying to push both selector rods.
Maybe I'm being thick!

[Charlynsane]

This is your area of concern isn't it.
It concerned me too but it's not caused me any issues although it's not ideal, if memory serves me correctly the claw actually bridges the recess in the KAD housing. There shouldn't be any force being applied to the claw during gear shifts as it only follows the gear selector, in fact I'm not actually sure what its purpose is.
No problem with gear selection on my box.

Yes it was exactly what I mean, I will make some more test this afternoon I will keep you in touch

[Charlynsane]

Hello Guys

I made some more test

I dismantle all the gearbox extensions, I greased all the knuckles and now I can engage my gear far better

Last tricky thing you have to push the throttle pedal before to engage the gear..

I think there is maybe a break in lapse time for the evo baulk rings

[Lakeland997]

At the risk of stating the obvious...
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but for anyone else reading this and building a remote gearbox in future:

Always fit the remote gearchange extension when the box is finished and check everything works as is supposed to.
I now keep a spare for this reason.

It won't find every issue but can save a lot of frustration later. If it doesn't change nicely in this static form then investigate, don't fit it.
And if you're fitting an oil baffle plate, as is the fashion these days, make sure that you do these checks after it is fitted.

Andy

[imack]

At the risk of stating the obvious...
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but for anyone else reading this and building a remote gearbox in future:

Always fit the remote gearchange extension when the box is finished and check everything works as is supposed to.
I now keep a spare for this reason.

It won't find every issue but can save a lot of frustration later. If it doesn't change nicely in this static form then investigate, don't fit it.
And if you're fitting an oil baffle plate, as is the fashion these days, make sure that you do these checks after it is fitted.

Andy

That's exactly how mine is at the moment.

[Peter Laidler]

Wise words there Lakeland....., VERY wise words. Worth their weight in gold

[Fanfaniracing]

At the risk of stating the obvious...
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but for anyone else reading this and building a remote gearbox in future:

Always fit the remote gearchange extension when the box is finished and check everything works as is supposed to.
I now keep a spare for this reason.

It won't find every issue but can save a lot of frustration later. If it doesn't change nicely in this static form then investigate, don't fit it.
And if you're fitting an oil baffle plate, as is the fashion these days, make sure that you do these checks after it is fitted.

Andy

That's exactly how I learned it in my formation.

I do it every time, like my master told me to do.

[Charlynsane]

Hello Guys

This is exactly what we did



I spoke to John guess, who's probably on of the most experienced gearbox builder

He said it was probably a tight 3rd synchro

I hope it will be better after the engine break in procedure

[imack]

I see from your last photo you're using a KAD quick shift, this does make for a 'heavier ' gearshift feel compared with the standard gear lever.

[Charlynsane]

Hello Imack

Just fitted for the picture, now for sale in the "for sale section"

I don't like the feeling with that

[Charlynsane]

Hello Guys

I achieved 600 miles since the engine rebuild

The 2nd gear still scratch when I downshift, I talk to the engine builder, he think it could be the clutch more than the gearbox,

The only way to make it smooth is to put rev before to downshift and the gear engage smooth

He me I made an error by draining the engine very 100 miles and put millers oil because of the ZDDP additive in it, it mays avoid the baulk ring to be properly lapped during the running in procedure on the pinion?

What are your thoughts ?

He ensures me that the gearbox is properly fitted and everything had been checked

I made another check I put the 1st gear, I lift the car and when I push the clutch pedal the wheel stops so the clutch cannot be faulty?

Thank you for your help

[Spider]

Baulk Rings don't 'bed in' but only (eventually) wear out. In regards to the Baulk Rings, changing the Oil should be fine.

If all other gears engage OK, both up and down, including Reverse (when at a stand still) then there has to be a fault with 2nd Gear causing 2nd Gear not to Synchronise.

If all gears, in particular Reverse, are 'scratchy' (grind), then it's most likely a Clutch issue, that includes the Primary Gear.

[Andrew1967]

In my experience, and my fathers (who has many many years of experience of Mini type gearboxes), if it only crunches in 2nd when changing down, it's the baulk ring at fault (or maybe the gear itself having a worn down surface).

Clutch clearance problems are normally first noticed with problems getting 1st and reverse.

Basically what Spider says

[Charlynsane]

Hello Guys

I forgot to say that everything was brand new including MS competition baulk ring

Is there any chance to solve the problem without open the engine?

[Spider]

I forgot to say that everything was brand new including MS competition baulk ring

I take the approach of ' Assume nothing, Check everything '. New, Guaranteed, yr best friend's mother's own, what ever - check it. This isn't a slur on any supplier of manufacturer, just what I think is good practice.

Is there any chance to solve the problem without open the engine?

If it is the Gearbox and not the Clutch (as suggested by Andrew and myself), it will need to come out and split off the engine.

[hicklingmick]

The Mini gearbox is no different to any other regarding how gears are engaged.

If it crunchies changing down then its either baulk ring or the gear itself.

If it was clutch reverse would crunch and 1st would be hard to engage.

[Lakeland997]

And don’t forget the possibility that centre of the first/second synchro hub has been fitted back to front.

Andy

[LuisM]

Baulk Rings don't 'bed in' but only (eventually) wear out. In regards to the Baulk Rings, changing the Oil should be fine.

If all other gears engage OK, both up and down, including Reverse (when at a stand still) then there has to be a fault with 2nd Gear causing 2nd Gear not to Synchronise.

+1 on what Chris said

Clutch clearance problems are normally first noticed with problems getting 1st and reverse.

+ 1 on what Andrew said

And don’t forget the possibility that centre of the first/second synchro hub has been fitted back to front.

+1 on what Andy said , this would be my "bet"

i would remove engine and dismantle gearbox

Cheers
Luis

[Charlynsane]

Hello Guys

I will remove the engine,

I will of course let you know the issue..

I just talk to the engine builder, he thinks of a faulty baulk ring... but he confirmed me that the hub was properly fitted