Heater motor
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- 998 Cooper
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Heater motor
Hi,
Before I attempt to take my heater motor apart, has anyone any tips / advice?
Or does anyone off er this service or sell recon versions?
Thanks.
Before I attempt to take my heater motor apart, has anyone any tips / advice?
Or does anyone off er this service or sell recon versions?
Thanks.
- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Heater motor
They are VERY simple things to restore and rebuild. In fact, assembly is a straight reversal of taking it apart. The only problem I have ever found is on the later Mk2's was that in their wisdom (There was a reason but I won't go into it here.....), BL used a motor where the hoses came out of the housing on the RIGHT side. Even that is a simple fix in order to use shorter hoses exiting from the LEFT side. There must have been a zillion articles on refurbishing the heater mootors
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Heater motor
From memory so please jump in anyone... foam dust and rust expected so choose a good spot to do it.
This Mk1.
Remove the screws holding the side ears having taken a photo - just because they look odd when refitting.
Warm up the plastic knob if needs be as it be tough to get off... just pulls off. New are available if it is damaged.
Take off the front plate screws and keep safe (usually shorter).
Undo all the screws around the bent over edges and keep safe in cardboard or a jar. Stainless replacements are available though if you fancy.
Both sides can be pulled off - keep it level so no pressure is on the motor or fan. Note the wires and for example where the knot is for the switch.
Front flap should fall out as it hinges on the side.
Motor rivets can be drilled out if you wish to remove it, and matrix is just stuck in with foam.
Nick on here does recons and Mark is sorting out some plates. Fred Nippy Cars does ears and the front plate too. Somerford do new foam.
Hope that helps?
This Mk1.
Remove the screws holding the side ears having taken a photo - just because they look odd when refitting.
Warm up the plastic knob if needs be as it be tough to get off... just pulls off. New are available if it is damaged.
Take off the front plate screws and keep safe (usually shorter).
Undo all the screws around the bent over edges and keep safe in cardboard or a jar. Stainless replacements are available though if you fancy.
Both sides can be pulled off - keep it level so no pressure is on the motor or fan. Note the wires and for example where the knot is for the switch.
Front flap should fall out as it hinges on the side.
Motor rivets can be drilled out if you wish to remove it, and matrix is just stuck in with foam.
Nick on here does recons and Mark is sorting out some plates. Fred Nippy Cars does ears and the front plate too. Somerford do new foam.
Hope that helps?
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- 998 Cooper
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Re: Heater motor
Thanks for all the replies. I'll give it a go next weekend. The motor barely spins at the moment so expecting some worn internals.
- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Heater motor
I wouldn't mind betting that the barely turning motor is because it's full of dried-out foam particles from the knackered foam. When I was rebuilding mine (and another for my local Mini owning pal Clever Trevor recently) I just went to a man on the Abingdon Monday market who sells zillions of large and small foam off-cuts. He looked at the busted original samples and told me that it was '......60's crap....' He sold me some what he called 'medium density' grey stuff that was impregnated with a slippery stuff (silicon?). Been going fine since the 80's now!
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- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Heater motor
Just the matrix on the one I got - but having seen it, it would be easy to replace / replicate as Peter suggests.
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Re: Heater motor
The hardest part about doing the motor is getting the bloody plastic fan off. That part is almost impossible.