Brake pipe choices

[AndyPen]

I have used the usual Cupra Nickel stuff for repairs for years, but somehow it just doesn't look quite right on a mini so am thinking about some of the stuff with a steel outer like the jag stuff on ebay.

Had a quick go at flaring a sample and it seemed OK, though it takes a bit more clamping. Any one else had experience of this stuff?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-E-TYP ... Sw2tFeo9XN

[bwaminispeed]

I use just plain old fashioned double walled steel as was originally used on the cars.........

Once done/restored, we usually don't subject them to the use and abuse they received when they were new, and, were driven through al the salt slush and snow etc.......

I try and buy the pre-made straight lengths, because, straightening out coils of the stuff just doesn't work for me, you can never get nice crisp lines out of coils.......It's a few bucks more expensive this way, but, the results are worth it........

I hate all that copper/nickel crap, and, especially the brass fittings people like to use......

Wiebe-71-MKIII-S-100.jpg

And, my little tool for bending up close to a fitting, just a short bit of brass hex with appropriate thread for the fitting you are using.....

Wiebe-71-MKIII-S-096.jpg

[AndyPen]

That looks excellent! I always admire you folks that have all the extra work to do with left hand drive cars.

[Andrew1967]

I've used the copper lined zinc coated steel from etypeparts on HOY.

Very pleased with it, flares nicely and bends well too.

I have also just bought some of the cheap 'zinc coated steel, allegedly copper lined' tubing that is advertised on eBay for a third of the price ... not impressed. Its not copper lined, is a different colour to the above pipe and does not flare at all well.

I only need about 2ft to finish the pipe work on the servo (would have been OK with just the one full roll but had a couple of 'f**k ups so thought about the Chinese stuff) but its not worth it, so another £25.00 roll will be on order soon.

[jerry]

Hi,
I got a roll of cupro-nickle plated. Looks original, but no rust problems

[colonel mustard]

Hi Andy
I have used 3/16 Kunifer nickel in the areas that you can not see.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roll-25ft-Lo ... SwcB5ZMY3b

Where you can see I will be using 3/16 steel brake pipework which is copper lined.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-E-TYP ... %7Ciid%3A1

I also used one of these to straighten the coiled pipe:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KWIX-3-16-BR ... 0667.m2042

['S'-type]

Any recommendations for a flaring tool that is up to the job but can justify the cost if it only gets used two or three times a year?

[Gareth Brandt]

Original steel, done by hand (thumbs). Just copied the original rusty pipes Took some time but the end result is perfect!!

[colonel mustard]

I used this flaring tool:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MADE-IN-THE- ... 2749.l2649

[Andrew1967]

We use this flaring tool ...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254777875237

Had too many bad flares by the cheaper hand held types. This one is perfect first time, every time (unless using the cheap tubing as shown above). The Etypespares tubing flares really nicely.

[Herbert]

You want to try this flaring tool, its amazing! No effort at all. One helful hint : use a good cutting tool, do not saw thru the brake pipe, it will never flare properly!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulics-F ... Swu4peEyMZ

or search for item# 373121153882

flange_Tool.JPG

[AndyPen]

Thanks for all the insights and replies, here are my tests and the tool that I used. My OTT straightener is the huge blue anodised item in the background. Maybe I need to upgrade my flaring kit too?

I am just looking at the fittings that came from Somerford Minis and will need to compare them to the originals over in my unit. I would swear the ends of the male ones were recessed (conical??) not flat, and the females had a raised seat??

If so, do I need to revisit the type of flare perhaps, bubble not double????

flare-tool.jpg

flare-test-1.jpg

flare-test-2.jpg

[InnoCooperExport]

I've just done my car in Cunifer, I still had the original steel lines but they were very rusty and the unions were very rounded (seems using the right size spanner is still difficult for some...). I didn't fancy bending new steel lines and had good experiences making up new lines for the Fulvia with the Cunifer. As for flaring I have access to a very nice double lap flaring tool from Sykes Pickavant as below. Very simple and makes very nice flares.

https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/product ... -tools/554

[richardACS]

I use just plain old fashioned double walled steel as was originally used on the cars.........

Once done/restored, we usually don't subject them to the use and abuse they received when they were new, and, were driven through al the salt slush and snow etc.......

I try and buy the pre-made straight lengths, because, straightening out coils of the stuff just doesn't work for me, you can never get nice crisp lines out of coils.......It's a few bucks more expensive this way, but, the results are worth it........

I hate all that copper/nickel crap, and, especially the brass fittings people like to use......


Wiebe-71-MKIII-S-100.jpg



And, my little tool for bending up close to a fitting, just a short bit of brass hex with appropriate thread for the fitting you are using.....

Wiebe-71-MKIII-S-096.jpg

Lovely work very nicely executed and so agree about the copper stuff never looks right!

[green1071]

Old school way of straightening coiled pipe.

1. Unroll approximately 25 to 35 mm (1 to 1.5 inches for USA people) extra of total length needed.

2. Flatten approximately 13 mm or 1/2" and bend both ends 90 degrees.

3. Clamp one end in your vise other end clamped with vise grip. Tap vise grip with hammer until straight.

You will be amazed how easy and straight pipe will be.