Refinishing D1s

[111Robin]

I've read through the various posts on D1 renovation but thought I'd canvass opinions again as others may have been through the same process more recently. I was planning the following process.
1. 100% etch prime
2. Brush paint "unseen surfaces" with chassis black (as I have a load of this so may as well use it).
3. Aerosol paint (satin black), front, not bothering about masking off.
4. Sand rim and spoke tops to achieve desired sheen. I'll be starting with 80 grit and working up to 2000 so presume all traces of paint would be removed.

My only concern would be chipping the paint edges during sanding. I'll be using an orbital sander to start with and fine finish by hand.

There are more ways to skin a cat so all opinions welcome.

[Beatie]

What I done Robin was
Paint stripped them
Dollyed the couple of dinks out
Sanded all the nice faces down to 240
I then masked all the nice faces and then went round with a new sharp round needle file just so it cut the tape .
Acid etched prime Spray
Top coat spray
Peeled tape off and sanded to 240 then through to 800
Job done
I was happy with the outcome , like all things good just takes a bit of time .
Hope that helps
Jeremy

[111Robin]

Thanks Jeremy, nice work.
I was hoping to avoid the masking if possible but I'm not sure if sanding painted surfaces will work. I suppose the masking isn't too difficult using your method to cut the edges sharp with a file.

[Beatie]

The way I looked at was the time spent masking versus the time spent sanding paint and continuously clogging sand paper because we never can wait long enough for it to fully cure

[111Robin]

True, patience isn't one of my virtues either, has to be done yesterday, especially if it's of no importance when it gets done

[Nick W]

Quite a bit on refurbishing D1s here.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12319&start=20

[111Robin]

Is it necessary to mask the surfaces that are to be polished before etch priming ?. I was assuming the primer would be easily removed by the sanding process.

[Beatie]

My take on it was if I taped it pre etch it would still be less strokes of the arm .
Also bearing in mind I sanded them all by hand using a 1” square piece of wood as my block which also had the correct radius on one end to suit inner rim .

[111Robin]

I see what you mean. I'm using an orbital sander so I wouldn't be too bothered about additional sanding time, should be a lot less than the time to mask. I think I'll prime all surfaces, spray the unseen surfaces, sand the rim and spokes then brush paint the inserts, wiping off any excess from the polished surfaces then maybe a final hand polish. Really depends on how it responds to the orbital sander. I don't want mirror finish so shouldn't take too long.

[Daz1968]

When I did mine I finished off front face with grey scotchbrite, I didn’t want a highly polished finish though

[111Robin]

Working through the D1 refurbishment and learning a few lessons on the way :

1. It is not a good idea to prime the faces that are to be sanded unless you want to spend forever sanding out every single pit from the surfaces as these show up having been filled with primer, like a guide coat. Pretty obvious when you think about it. Without the primer the fine pitting would be pretty much unnoticeable. I've done two like this, the others will be masked before priming. That said, you only see the pitting from a distance of a couple of inches so not really an issue. I had to start with a P60 disc to get the worst of it out. Machining is probably the only 100% solution but I'm not that bothered about it.
2. I'm using Arc-Rite semi-gloss to brush paint the centres. This is proving difficult as it has the consistency of treacle. I have used their chassis paint before and remember it was the same. You don't so much brush it on as spread it and hope for the best. As such the finish isn't brilliant but again perfectly presentable from anything but a few inches. I might go for spraying the other wheels if I can bring myself to spend ages masking them. Alternatively I'll maybe try a different paint with better brush on properties than Arc-Rite. It is good paint (used it on the Wolseley subframe) but a bit of a nightmare if you're after a good finish.
3. For sanding I've found that the air powered 3"/2" sander is the best. I started off using a 5" electric DA sander but it was a bit too brutal. The air tool is easier to control. It's not something I've spent time doing before and it is very time consuming, plus I'm sure the neighbours are getting hacked off with the compressor running constantly, soon be finished though so shouldn't annoy them for much longer.

After all of this effort I hope that a) they're ok with the 145s, b) they don't protrude too much and c)I actually like them on the car, we'll see!.

20200814_120405 by Robin Derrick, on Flickr

[Polarsilver]

Proper Job

[Beatie]

Looking good Robin

[111Robin]

Cheers, I have another set to do, perfecting the process

[111Robin]

Now turned into an obsession, beware the combined effects of lockdown and job loss

Blockleys being fitted tomorrow then all I need to do is like them when fitted to my car. If I don't then watch the For Sale section.........
20200820_192620 by Robin Derrick, on Flickr

[colonel mustard]

Hi Robin,
Did you do a clear coat lacquer on the rims when you finished?
Thanks

[111Robin]

Hi Robin,
Did you do a clear coat lacquer on the rims when you finished?
Thanks

No I just left them bare alloy. Whenever I'm cleaning the car I just give the bare surfaces a quick rub with a grey Scotchbrite pad, this keeps the finish perfect. I was concerned about clear coat starting to peel eventually, requiring to be sanded down again, so I preferred not to use any.
I should also add that I only brush painted the first two wheels, following that I decided to mask and spray the others and I'm far happier with the finish on these :

20201005_201405 by Robin Derrick, on Flickr