Starting up problem

[ltgo168]

Hi all,

It seem like a good day to drive, I've finshed changing the radiator, timing cover with a breather for an A- 1275 67' Cooper S and took for a test drive three week ago and ran better and cooler which is great so today I try to start it up, It just wouldn't fire up, it had spark so I change new plug BPR6ES and set it to .032, .32, .50, so when I turn over with the choke, it sound like BURR BURR BURR . What am I doing wrong here or need to do?

I hope someone can solve this, much thank.

[woodypup59]

Can you film this problem and post on Youtube ?

[1071 S]

Bit hard when we don't know anything (at all) about you car... or what you did.

I presume that when the car wouldn't start you kept trying while periodically opening up the plug gaps???? From memory 25 thou (.025Inches) is a proper Mini plug gap. So the larger gaps *may* be an issue ..or not. Did you fit new leads along wi the new plugs? Had you re-tried using the old plugs? Do the new plugs provide a good spark?

All that cranking may have flooded the engine .. While you say you have spark, the change to resistor plugs..with big gaps.. and maybe doused in fuel may mean no spark when installed in the engine..

When you installed the vented rocker (gear) cover ... or was it a tappet chest cover??)...(Minis don't have cam covers) what did you do with the other end of the vent tube (if you fitted one??)?

Maybe some photos of your set-up might help?

Cheers, Ian

[ltgo168]

Hello Ian,

Thank you for replaying with such good detail, sorry I can't do the same. So I will try again. I have a standard 1275 A- with twin SU 1.5. I finished installing a new radiator and changing a timing cover with a breather. I took it for a test drive which went great. Three week later, I think is a good day to drive but it just wouldn't turn over, so like you said I flooded the engine, so yesterday I got a new set of plugs and set them at .032, .050 and today I set them at .025 and it did turn over like yesterday but has a rough sound that's before I removed the plug and with a heavy foot I turn the key for 15 second. I check the wires, distributor without a vacuum and the rotor but the cap has a little piece broken off on each four corner, I doesn't look new. I'm going to order a new one but can you see the pics. and recommend if I should replace a new distributor and what kind, with or without a vacuum?.

Thank you very much for your time, Thai

[Polarsilver]

How old is your Petrol? .. Ethanol Fuel can go off in a matter of weeks & will prevent a Mini Engine to run... if it was my car i would drain off the old Petrol from the Tank & Carbs & refill with 5ltr of fresh fuel.
I fired up my 1275GT on what was Petrol left in the Tank after this car was standing unused for 10 months.. However my fuel is laced with Briggs & Stratton "Fuel Fit" so designed for overwintering Chain Saws & Mowers .." Fuel Fit" worked for me

[ltgo168]

Hi Polar,

Thank you for replying and no because the petrol is pretty new. The motor did turn over but has a rough idle and is running lean, I gap the new plugs .032, .050 and .025 like the manual and still. Distributor cap, wire, all normal. All out of idea



Thank again, Thai

[Spider]

I don't know if this is part of the current issue here, but I can see you do have an problem with the Aftermarket Ignition System that's damaging your distributor cap.

I can see you have a 'Black Box' type of Ignition system (the Crane Cam XR-700 box).

It triggers from an Optical Pick-up. This hasn't been aligned properly. As a result, it is 'sparking' when the Rotor is some way from lining up with the contacts in the distributor cap. I can see it's been running like this for quite a while. I would suggest aligning it.

The instructions you'll find here;-

https://static.summitracing.com/global/ ... ctions.pdf

However, as a little variation to these, I'd actually suggest making an allowance for the Automatic Advance the distributor has.

<Edit: There's a diagnostic procedure in the instructions too >


In regards to your present issue - which may or may not be related to this above - come back to basics. You only need fuel and spark. It has previously been running, so we know the engine runs. You seem to have a spark (though, I think will be a weak one), and if that's a health blue or orange spark, then look to the fuel side of things.

[cooper64]

is the firing order correct 1 3 4 2 after changing spark plugs (mixed up spark plug leads)

[ltgo168]

Hi, sorry for the delay in mine update due to many brain fart. I have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, coil, spark plugs and wires. I set them at .032, and .025 and run with the choke fully out for 2 min. and that's not normal. I don't have any idea what else to do, I hope you guys do. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to researching and advice. If when I get this sorted out, I will go basic after I replace the front and back suspension. Anyway thank, Thai

[Twincam]

Sounds like you may have a huge vacuum leak. Do you have a brake booster installed? If so, I'd remove the hose where it attaches to the intake manifold and cap the intake manifold port well. You can leave the hose from the booster just hanging as is. See if that makes a difference.

[ltgo168]

I just replaced the distributor cap 45D and is without a vacuum. I don't know if I should replace a new one with vacuum and remove the Crane Cames RX700 and go back to basic?. Thank you for your suggestion