Best way to support body?

[Gary Schulz]

I am getting close to dropping the front subframe in order to remove the steering rack so I built a wooden contraption to lift the car by the sturdy parts of the subframe instead of lifting on the gearbox. I can't bear the thought of pulling on those engine mounts...

20200617_131726.jpg

What is the best way to support the body once you start to lower the subframe? I am concerned about minimizing any paint and body damage in the process. What have you guys done to support the body with the least chance for damage?

[Andrew1967]

Replied to your PM Gary ..

I'd try to do it in situ personally ....

[Gary Schulz]

I already decided to just push forward. If I did it in situ I would probably have some sort of regret for taking a shortcut when the noise came back! All I have left are the rear bolts and tower bolts. Already loosened the front bolts. Just need to devise a way to not bend or break the body. Do you think just simple moving blankets under the footwells with a beam across the floor will be sufficient. By definition the body will not be supporting the front subframe and engine so should be a fair bit lighter.

[AndyPen]

Slightly off topic, but I have four metal rods here that are flexible and go into the bolt holes in the towers when I drop a front subframe. They act as guides when you refit it and there is no fuss in terms of realignment etc. Old rally days trick to make life easier

I have a doubled up palette system on wheels that goes under car. Dense foam underlay and a rather nice red carpet spreads the load.

Mark has a special trolly too doesn't he?

[Andrew1967]

It is certainly easier to do the actual job on the bench. I've not had the noise come back after several thousand miles by doing it in situ but know what you are saying.

I'd be careful supporting on the actual footwells, I'd support on the jack stands next to the footwells and then put some protective materials along the support to prevent damage. As you say, there wont be a lot of weight bearing down on there, with the power unit being supported by the jack.

I'm sure others will disagree / agree with different plans of action

[Gary Schulz]

Slightly off topic, but I have four metal rods here that are flexible and go into the bolt holes in the towers when I drop a front subframe. They act as guides when you refit it and there is no fuss in terms of realignment etc. Old rally days trick to make life easier

The rods are a great idea. That was the other thing I was thinking about- having to jockey the subframe with engine while trying to find the spot for the bolts.

Even though it goes against my silly quest for originality, what do you guys think about fitting a new rack (ether Mk2 with new arms or a quick rack)? They are actually ridiculously inexpensive compared to just about any other car I am familiar with.

I spent so much time getting the pinion preload and shims just right that I never even gave a thought to this bushing. How stupid!

[Daz1968]

I supported my body under the sills jacking plates with a rubber block and axle stands, as Andrew said without it taking weight of engine nothing got damaged, worked fine, I just transferred them to under subframe once it was back in position so I could remove jack, if you do want a beam under floor put it across the heel board where it meets floor it’s thicker there. Just need to space it to clear pipes if go that way, as for a new repro rack can’t comment from experience but if quality is like most other repro parts I would rather salvage an original one,

[AndyPen]

Slightly off topic, but I have four metal rods here that are flexible and go into the bolt holes in the towers when I drop a front subframe. They act as guides when you refit it and there is no fuss in terms of realignment etc. Old rally days trick to make life easier

The rods are a great idea. That was the other thing I was thinking about- having to jockey the subframe with engine while trying to find the spot for the bolts.

Even though it goes against my silly quest for originality, what do you guys think about fitting a new rack (ether Mk2 with new arms or a quick rack)? They are actually ridiculously inexpensive compared to just about any other car I am familiar with.

When I took my rack off it turned out to be a Mk 2 rack anyway, and I never knew. The early steering arms bent very easily I've been told, so the rack and arms were an early change for most motorsport cars.

I've had mine professionally refurbished and its going back in.

[bwaminispeed]

I have never dropped a subframe (completely) to get the rack out, always left the two front bolts in but loosened, then, pulled the tower bolts and, rear subframe to floor bolts.......You only need to drop the back a couple of inches to get the rack in and out.....

You need to take out the remote shifter anyway, so, a piece of two by four (About 4 feet long, with about half an inch thick carpet on the top side), just behind the rear subframe mount, on a couple of axle stands, easily supports the body without doing any damage.......

The two front bolts keep everything lined up well enough to not need alighnment bolts in the towers (but, they really help if you have the subframe right out).....

Plus, keeping those front bolts in, really lessens the load on the engine mounts.....

[Gary Schulz]

Appreciate the inputs on how to best support the body. I didn't like the idea of "reverse" loading the engine mounts so I am jacking on the front subframe to raise the car and lower the subframe instead of just supporting the bottom of the gearbox. I was never fond of that approach.

[Andrew1967]

Unless the replacement rack is brand new, I’d be wary. In the past I have had recon racks and all they appear to do is tighten up the steering arm ball joints and not bother about the bush...

Guess how I found out they didn’t check the bush

As Darren says, best to recondition the original rack yourself, then you know exactly where you are .

[mk1]

Gary's jacking block is very reminiscent of the original factory recommendation.

jacking.jpg

[DB1380]

Gary's jacking block is very reminiscent of the original factory recommendation.

jacking.jpg

Im going to knock up one of these. I use something pretty much along the same lines at the mo, but its nice to have all the right measurements to hand.
I shall be making it out of some very nice seasoned English Oak i have...ohh very posh.

[AndyPen]

I've got one of those too

My recon rack was done by some local folks who serve the active rally scene here, if you can't trust them I don't know who you can trust

[Gary Schulz]

Unless the replacement rack is brand new, I’d be wary. In the past I have had recon racks and all they appear to do is tighten up the steering arm ball joints and not bother about the bush...

Guess how I found out they didn’t check the bush

As Darren says, best to recondition the original rack yourself, then you know exactly where you are .

Yes, I was looking at new racks from MS. Seem really inexpensive but are they decent quality?

[Andrew1967]

I'm afraid I can't comment either way Gary on that.

I'm sure others here would be able to though.

[swifty]

Every restoration I've carried out gets a new minispares steering rack and mk2 arms . I really can't be bothered in rebuilding a old rack when a new one is about £60 . So far and I must have used at least ten , I've had no trouble .... ken

[AndyPen]

Unless the replacement rack is brand new, I’d be wary. In the past I have had recon racks and all they appear to do is tighten up the steering arm ball joints and not bother about the bush...

Guess how I found out they didn’t check the bush

As Darren says, best to recondition the original rack yourself, then you know exactly where you are .

You've all got me worried now - sorry to hijack the thread a little Gary, but my rack has only just gone on the car - so what should I check in terms of play?

[Gary Schulz]

Unless the replacement rack is brand new, I’d be wary. In the past I have had recon racks and all they appear to do is tighten up the steering arm ball joints and not bother about the bush...

Guess how I found out they didn’t check the bush

As Darren says, best to recondition the original rack yourself, then you know exactly where you are .

You've all got me worried now - sorry to hijack the thread a little Gary, but my rack has only just gone on the car - so what should I check in terms of play?

Very timely discussion. I completely neglected to even notice that there was a bush on the passenger side so I am not surprised that others may neglect it.

Every restoration I've carried out gets a new minispares steering rack and mk2 arms . I really can't be bothered in rebuilding a old rack when a new one is about £60 . So far and I must have used at least ten , I've had no trouble .... ken

Good to know. The cost of brand new racks is so low that is why I was wondering why people are so concerned about finding third parties to refurbish their old ones. Maybe just the effort to keep things original? Do you just get the standard rack and not the so-called quick rack?