relace diff. cover 22G333 case

[Faffer]

I have a 22G333 gear case with no diff. cover. Is it practical, cost wise to do the required work to fit a replacement? With my untrained eye it looks like an align bore and machine the sides so they're even. Am I correct in thinking all the machining should be done on the cover and none on the case?
I will appreciate your comments
Scott

[roymck]

Sometimes you can get away with it so it’s always worth trying first . I’ve done it twice and had no problems , it’s just pot luck.

[TECH396]

This is my experience with this topic. One issue is the alignment of the side covers after machining, in order for the retaining bolts to fit. These covers need to fit smoothly, and if you remove any material from the faces of the case and diff cover before a line bore, these side covers may not line up well afterwards.
The last one I sent to the machinist was out by .003" on line bore and .010" on Side to side alignment. By the time it was done, the side covers didn't line up as well as I'd like. Remember, if a line bore is out by .003, you must remove .006" total, before the boring will work. Incidentally, that .003 was enough to cause uneven pressure and binding on the diff bearings .

[bwaminispeed]

I've done about ten of them over the years without any machining......no problems......

A couple were a bit more off side to side than I liked, I just made up half gaskets out of suitable thickness bond paper for the diff cover gaskets, worked fine..........

[Spider]

I've done a dozen or more.

You need to try a few Caps to find one that's close. Sometimes if I can't find one that I like straight off, I'll remove the Dowels and not refit them. The Diff Bearings will more than adequately align it in one plane. Mainly what I look for to align a Cap is round Bearing Tunnels (with gaskets if its a case that uses them) or undersized ones and the side faces not too far off, but even as much as 0.010" here isn't too much of a bother. If the Tunnels on the trial fitting are a little over-size and it's a case that uses Gaskets, it is entirely feasible to go Gasketless, this brings them circa 0.007 to 0.010" closer together. Nearly all the late Cases from about 82 on were Gasketless and none I've seen have issues from this.

Then I'll stand the case up in the Mill, with the Cap (and Gaskets if used), Torqued up, clock off the Tunnels, bore the Tunnel on the Cap Side - if needed, face the Side Faces - here I always remove material from both parts as I'm yet to find a case that these Faces are perpendicular to the Diff Centre Line. Flip the Case over and Face the other side.

Sometimes I find I also need to remove a little material from the Spigot of the Side Cover(s) too, depending on how much was needed to be removed from the Side faces of the Case / Cap.

If the Dowels were earlier removed, as mentioned, the Bearings will align the Cap in one plane on assembly and then use a straight edge against one of the Side Faces to align it in the other plane before torquing up.

Done right, it will in fact be better than original, with the Side Faces now perpendicular, the Side Cover Bushes will last much longer.

[Faffer]

Thanks guys. Lots of good information. Finding a selection of covers probably isn't an option here but I'll see. I'll take this info and the case to a local machinist and see what he thinks.

[kit of bits]

I have covers, where are you based?
D

[Faffer]

North west of Toronto. There's a dearth of used bits around here now. Thank you for the offer tho

[Vegard]

I've got at least ten casings and five covers that has no match. I've tried them all, but none are even close. However, my local machine shop have got a new fancy Rottler line boring equipment, et voila. La solution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CzuAZdXiLU