Wet to dry conversion

[Austinmini1966]

I am undergoing a full restoration on a 66 Mk1 and changing from wet to dry.
I had rebuild the wet radius arms and ready to start the rebuild of the subframes.... however have subsequently read that I shouldn’t be using wet arms on a dry set up?
Could someone with some experience please advice!?
Many thanks

['S'-type]

You can keep some of the wet parts but most advise against it.
The hydro front arm can be kept but it gives a stiffer ride due to the knuckle joint seat being further away from the pivot point. Addition of a shock pin also needed.
The rear is more complicated. You can use a wet frame with dry components but the displacer housings ( retaining lugs) have to be modified to accept the dry cone.
If you are using a new dry frame, there are a few key differences between wet and dry radius arms that mean they can't be used interchangably. The knuckle joint seating lugs are in a different position. ( Can be over come with lengthened strut.) The helper spring of the wet arm needs to be replaced by the shocker pin. Can be done but difficult.) The brake lines are routed differently. ( Longer on dry going under the arm.)
So if you stick with wet radius arms there are three issues to address. I don't know any one who has done this.
If I were you I would trade my wet arms for a reconned set of dry ones. Shouldn't have a problem selling the wet ones. Or keep them in case you decide to go back to wet one day!

[mab01uk]

Useful 'How To' link on converting wet to dry suspension:-
http://www.calverst.com/technical-info/ ... et-to-dry/