Bringing my Mini out of storage

[NikOett]

I have a 1967 Mk1 South African Mini - this has been in my garage for a few years without being run. I'm about to start the process of getting it back to life, not wanting to rush this.

I have been occasionally spraying some WD40 into the bores, although I have not recently turned the engine over manually.

One of my first thoughts is to drain the cooling system, remove the radiator, water pump and heater valve and flush through the system before refilling with new coolant. I expect to repeat this later once I get the engine started with a bit of heat in the system. I'm not sure of the originality of the water pump - I'll inspect this and potentially replace for now, keeping the old one.

I'm looking for a bit of advice of how I should approach this. I have had a 1989 Mini for many years and have experience with doing most mechanical tasks on that, but I'm aware that there will be some quirks and tips relating to an older Mini that I won't be aware of.

Thanks all!

[woodypup59]

Just a few thoughts :-

First check the engine isn't seized, put into top gear and push the car araound. If the fan turns, the pistons are moving.

If the water system has been kept full, I wouldn't worry about the water pump yet. But yes, eventually give the cooling system a full flush out.

Put something heavier down the plug holes - ie 20-50 and spin over on the starter to lube the bores.

Take out the oil pipe banjo at squirt some oil (say an egg cup full) down to prime the pump.

Spin over (may be 1 minute) and see if you get oil pressure.

Remove petrol pipe from carb, pump out all the old fuel and pump through fresh new stuff. Refit pipe.

Check for spark - some times the points glaze over and need a clean.

Try starting.

You may have to re-polarise the dynamo if the ign warning light stays on.

[NikOett]

Thanks for your reply. I put some 20w50 into the bores earlier today. Selecting gears is a little tricky, and I think the car is in fourth. Pushing the car back and forth for about 2ft didn’t seem to turn the engine. The crankshaft pulley didn’t seem to move and looking directly into no 1 cylinder I couldn’t see the piston changing position.

The clutch pedal gives little resistance, so I’m presuming this may be seized on. However I’m a little confused as to how pushing the car back and forth is quite so easy if the engine is seized as everything should be connected together.

The engine is a 998 Cooper 9FD SA if this helps.

Not sure about next steps. Turn engine by hand at pulley end?

[woodypup59]

Yes by all means try to turn the engine pulley.

This is tricky anyway, and would be a little easier if you do take the rad out.

Just as awkward, but may give a better grip, would be to take the clutch cover off to turn the flywheel.

Did you ever drive the car ?

If so, the wheels not turning the engine is a mystery, unless the clutch stuck in the "depressed" condition - which is not normal.

If not may be there's a fault in the gearbox - like the big nut coming undone.

[NikOett]

Thanks for your help.

I last drove the car a few years ago - the car was put into storage when I didn't have the space to store it. I then moved the car to my house after I found a place with enough garage space for two Minis...

At the time to car drove fine - selecting gears was a little tricky at times but nothing too difficult.

I agree that it would be unusual for the clutch to be stuck in the depressed state, but is there a way I could check 'externally' without having to lift the engine? It would explain how I can push the car.

Happy to remove the radiator as I probably should flush that through anyway. The coolant is no longer visible in the radiator so I imagine there may well be some crystalline stuff around the thermostat the needs cleaning out anyway. I presume I can access the pulley bolt from there?

I guess that I may well have to pull the engine if the clutch is stuck open. Was trying to avoid this if possible but if I have to, I have to!

[GraemeC]

I suspect it is more likely that you weren't actually in gear.
The clutch can't have operated and then seized whilst in storage

Unless having pressed the pedal the arm has now seized in its 'extended' position - is there a gap between the clutch arm and the small stop bolt that is screwed into the wok?

[NikOett]

Thanks for your help. Over the next couple of days I'll take a look and share what I've found. I've also got a new battery coming soon to help with some of the further steps

[NikOett]

Hello again - brief update.

I've removed the starter motor to allow me to access the flywheel ring gear. I'm able to turn the engine quite easily using a screwdriver with the spark plugs removed - so the engine isn't seized.

I've checked clutch fluid level and seems ok. The slave cylinder is in its retracted position with no gap between the clutch arm and stop bolt. Therefore I suspect the master cylinder has failed? The clutch pedal is able to be depressed with little resistance and returns with the spring.

It would also appear that I'm unable to get into a gear.

Next steps - need to get the clutch working so I'll await any advice with investigating that. I'll also change the oil ahead of building some oil pressure. Then it'll be onto the carb and ignition.

Thanks again