Brake flare type(s)

[colonel mustard]

Hi All,
Nice and quick one (hopefully)
Started looking at running new brake lines, looking through past threads and other internet pages, I can assume there are two types of flare required on the brake lines when run, these are as per the attached photograph (make and female).

Or
When searching through the inherited box of parts I found some of the old brake lines, mainly the T brass piece at the front. Looking at the pipes it looks like these may have been a DIN type, similar to the first photograph but with a square shoulder.

The question is,
Can I use the flares I have shown in the two photographs or do i need to get a DIN flare tool to replicate the originals?

Any help appreciated,

[Fanfaniracing]

I never use the DIN Type Tool. I always make the type on your upper pic. This can then be modified with a second punch in the tool if required.
I can make some pics tomorrow at work if it helps...

[Spider]

I * think * the pipe flares used on Minis are generally referred to as an SAE type.

If buying a tool, avoid the types that do multisizes and clamp the pipe between 2 bars with wing nuts to tighten up the clamp. The flares these produce will never seal, however, I will admit that I do have one of these for tight places, though, I doweled the 2 bars for positive location and it works well, but it's not a simple task to accurately dowel them.

CBS have some nice and reasonably priced tools.

[dklawson]

The front surface of the DIN and SAE bubble flares are pretty much the same. The main difference between the two bubble flare profiles is on the "back" surface. The DIN will have a more flat back while the rear profile of the SAE is almost a mirror to the front. When installed the two types seal the same. What you have to be careful with are the "nuts" used with flares. The common SAE nut (at least in the U.S.) is threaded all the way to the front. You cannot use them on cars like the Mini. You need 3/8-24 threaded nuts with the first 4 or 5mm of thread relieved behind the flare. That allows the nut to fully seat and tighten to make the seal. In the U.S. those relieved nuts are sometimes referred to as "British", other times they may be referred to as "Lockheed/Girling" nuts.

The bottom picture is a double flare. You will need those also. They are used where the hard lines connect to the flex hoses going to the calipers and wheel cylinders.

The parallel bar type kits are not in themselves unacceptable. The die buttons form the bubble of double flare, not the bars. The cheap bubble flare kits (with the clamping bars) however do have a reputation for the "center post" of the die button breaking off. That renders the kit useless... at least for the size with the broken die. If you are planning on doing a lot of flares it is worth buying a better kit.

[Nick W]

I agree the hand held type with the clamping bars and wing nuts are poor.
But this type works well for awkward jobs on the car

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121917694750

[woodypup59]

The Colonel's top picture shows the first stage flare, used with male tube nuts that go into the brass tee piece and all brake cyls,.

The lower picture shows that flare taken to the second stage flare, used with a female tube nut, to connect onto flexy brake hoses.

Do not use square DIN flares.

[colonel mustard]

Thanks all,
Great to know I am on the right track!
Nick, that is the flaring tool I have bought and I have tested on both copper and cupro nickel and find it flares the later perfect every time.
Thanks again