probs with new engine mounts--

[cheleker]

All the time. And I've used up my last original one.
The only ones that seem to fit are the captive nut ones that I can get from Seven in the US. I don't know their source. Don't like the captive nuts -- the way they are installed, but if you knock off the captive nuts, everything else is just right. The logical question to ask is if the mounts are fine without the nuts, why not make them without the nuts in the first place?

[Michael7]

Chuck,
PM sent on this subject.
Mike

[mk1]

Its not that the holes are in the wrong place, it's that they are too wide.

"Genuine" ones are still available you must ask for "Genuine" when you buy though, these still fit as normal.

[IAIN]

Mark... I posted here recently with the same problem, I have only ever used "genuine mounts" the problem I found the genuine mounts are now the same as non genuine crap, and twice the price.
The genuine part number has, I think it SLP on the end 21A1902SLP the 21A1902 would fit.

[Michael7]

Old stock of genuine ones will have the 21A1902 part number and the part itself has the Mowog stamping in the metal. Newer stock is now 21A1902SLP, which are repros that have the replacement part in the packet, and these are the ones that do not fit. They do not have the Mowog marking.

The SLP suffix I think means "Service Line Part" or similar, and implies it is an aftermarket replacement of the original part, and they are not to the same specification as original ones. These later ones appear to be no different from what Quinton Hazell and other aftermarket manufacturers supply.

The spacing of the 2 metal plates that make up the mounts are now different from original spec, so the effect is to make the pairs of mounting holes closer together on the replacement mounts, resulting in the installation difficulties.

[Matty]

I tend to put a smear of grease on the subframe. I find this helps them to slide into the subframe a little easier.

Loosening off the mount on the radiator side also helps a bit too.