hydro leak

[Pedromintor]

I have a hydro leak on my front displacer. The fluid is not come out of the thread where it screws in to the joiner. Its leaking out the top where the arrow is pointing to . Any ideas why it is and how I fix it ?

Thank you

Peter


https://s144.photobucket.com/user/pedro ... .jpeg.html


https://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r17 ... jcwbd.jpeg

[Peter Laidler]

It MUST be weeping/leeching from between the male and female part of the dovetail or tapered joint. It's getting up, past the flange part at the top of the acorn part and out between the shaft and the nut as you show.

You could depressurise the system and unscrew the hydro pipe nut from the adaptor part (the part that allows the hydro pipe to connect with the front to rear interconnecting pipe). Having seen the grotty state of the adaptors, I'd take the adaptor off too (support it with a spanner before attempting to unscrew the hydro pipe and interconnecting pipe nut...) and clean the female taper parts in both ends, remove the rust and grot from inside the adaptor too, grease up threads, reassemble and you MIGHT be good to go.

I say MIGHT be good to go because if the mating surfaces of the adaptor thinggy are pitted/corroded then I suppose you could easily and quickly re-surface the female adaptor surfaces in a lathe. As for the hydro hose end......... That's the EASY end to fix. Identify the correct nut thread (I forget it now offhand) and the male taper is an off the shelf part. Your hydraulic hose supplier can do the rest.

Been there, done it and...... For heavens sake while you're there just refill the system with fresh fluid too.... I wrote a small article about the inns and outs of this when I did mine. See 'Mini related how to' elsewhere

By the way, let us all know what the problem was....

[mk1]

All good advice above, if the pitting or damage is only minor or you don't have access to lather etc. A good short term fix could be a pipe sealer like "plumbers mate" or something similar. Not ideal, but can be done in situ.

[Peter Laidler]

In addition to Marks suggestion, don't forget to coppaslip the threads too. Or wrap that PTFE* tape around the exposed male part before reassembly. End of stuck thread problems forever
(* = Plastic Tape For Everything)

[Pedromintor]

I put a new HYDRO UNION ADAPTER 21a1524 on it . oiled the threads and nipped it as tight as possible and that seem to of solved the problem. Many thanks
Peter

[woodypup59]

I beive the Works used to Araldite these joints for leakproofness and security.

[Dearg1275]

If you remove the Union adapter and apply some valve grinding paste to the mating surfaces and work them back and forth until any pitting is gone, then you will get a good seal. Not precision engineering but it will get you out of trouble. I know you have found a solution but this might help others.

D

[Peter Laidler]

Further to the answers, on some of the old Centurion hydraulics where it was a similar cone and acorn hydraulic joint, you could use a small flat thin lead washer as used in old plumbing fittings. They only came as flat washers but they soon formed to the shape of the joint when the VM's set about them. Always worked a treat

[rogerotto66s]

Just had a similar problem.
I purchased used connectors 21A1519 and 21A1524.
Also purchased conical flare gaskets ($10 for set of 10).

I have not installed either yet.

[Andrew1967]

Interesting post Roger as we found those on Dad's VDP 1300 when disconnecting the front displacers from the hydro pipes.

I've never seen them before and Dad can't remember seeing them either in the 55 odd years he's worked on hydro cars.

[fzuppar@gmail.com]

whee did you buy the flair gaskets ?

[mk1]

These are a bit cheaper than the ones on ebay.

20p each.

https://www.bes.co.uk/bullfinch-copper- ... lare-14920

Looks like a great addition to a slightly creaky hydro system.

[rogerotto66s]

I am in the US.
I bought the copper flare gaskets at Grainger.

Other brands are FlareTite and FlareSeal.
Both seem to be a type of plastic and are quite a bit more expensive.
They may ”mold” better to the connector though.
Used primarily in HVAC and refrigeration markets.