Thoughts on the engine coolant taps?

[Guywilko]

The Bearmach land rover drains are crap.

The t piece handle falls off and the inner doesnt seal to the valve body

[Toby]

Am trying to fit the tap to my block, but for some reason it just doesn't want to go in all the way. I have already run a tap through the hole to make sure the threads are clean, but to no avail. The tap will clear the threads but the tap won't go any further at one point.

Then it popped into my mind that I remember reading that some of the taps had tapered threads and some had straight. Can anybody confirm this?

[AndyPen]

Are you using the thick spacer washers Toby? You are supposed to fit as many as it takes to get the tap facing the right way up

None of the early car ones I've seen are tapered, and yes after my earlier hassles I looked at a few - but I stand to be corrected.

[Hipwell]

Am trying to fit the tap to my block, but for some reason it just doesn't want to go in all the way. I have already run a tap through the hole to make sure the threads are clean, but to no avail. The tap will clear the threads but the tap won't go any further at one point.

Then it popped into my mind that I remember reading that some of the taps had tapered threads and some had straight. Can anybody confirm this?

Some taps are tapered but the threads in the block are generally parallel. 1/4” BSP.

[Toby]

Some taps are tapered but the threads in the block are generally parallel. 1/4” BSP.

Picked up a BSP tap and it fits like a dream now, many thanks for pointing me in that direction! When I measured it initially it looked like it was 1/2" UNF. I had to use a few shims to get it sit at the right angle.

20190813_184309.jpg

However that now leads to the following challenge

20190813_184550.jpg

Even if I would remove the shims to make it sit less proud of the block, it would still foul the manifold. I guess I'll have to pick up one of these as per what was in the block when I got it.

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[Peter Laidler]

Couldn't you just re-position the lever part? Fill in existing hole, drill and tap new hole to suit.

[AndyPen]

I gave up on it for other reasons (quality) but it was close for me too.

For what it is worth, I also tapped the hole and cleaned out inside. The new plug is really easy to undo in situ now, especially as I bought an 18mm ratchet spanner with a hinge that drops right on it.

[Andrew1967]

Were these OE on S engines ?

I have a couple of genuine NOS brass taps, one of which I was going to fit to HOY. I'm using an original manifold so maybe I'll have the same issues as Toby did.

I'll have to fit the manifold once the head is back on the engine.

[iain1967s]

Try to push the manifold across as you tighten the nuts - there is some tolerance... on mine it was very close but usable. See photo on previous page viewtopic.php?p=221839#p221839

[Toby]

I later realised it will also be down to which engine you have. As a 1275 will be taller then a 1071/970 it will provide just a bit more clearance

[Spider]

Were these OE on S engines ?

I have a couple of genuine NOS brass taps, one of which I was going to fit to HOY. I'm using an original manifold so maybe I'll have the same issues as Toby did.

I'll have to fit the manifold once the head is back on the engine.

The early S's had them but I don't have a change point when they were dropped and the plug fitted.

[Toby]

Both the tap and the plug are listed for the 1071, however it does.make sense that the FJ blocks would have the plug fitted as they were less prone to leaks