Rocker cover rivets

[AndyPen]

Just been discussing the paint job on my rocker cover and about to fit the replica plates and smooth dome top rivets when I suddenly thought, how are they compressed on the inside without damaging my shiny new top???

Anyone done this job please?

Also, noticed on the original Morris one, some normal rivets are used on the Morris badge - so I checked on my unrestored 64 SDL and guess what, that has the more usual open rivet too. Could they have had the Morris or Austin badges added afterwards? Using different rivets?

I also noticed a rocker for sale on ebay that looks as if the back (Westlake) plate had been badly masked and sprayed over in part, now I noticed the same on both my genuine rocker covers? So in theory at least, there might be bare metal under that plate?

Maybe I am just being fussy, lol

[iain1967s]

On mine I used a Dremmel to cut a groove in the back part, and then splayed the two sides out with a screwdriver. Then I sealed over the back with epoxy ‘liquid steel’ to prevent oil vapor stains.

[bwaminispeed]

I also have a lid that has both Pop rivets and, blind/domed rivets.....

To set the Domed rivets, you really need proper rivet setting tools.....

Simplest solution, is to poke the rivets through, and, a very small amount of JB Weld run round the rivet on the underside.....

Judicious application of a 100watt light bulb will set it off in about ten minutes......

[Twincam]

If you use blind rivets (known as POP Rivets) know there are several different versions to choose from. The most basic style may not be the best because it isn't guaranteed to be closed to oil flow out the center hole and the broken off mandrel that would normally block the center hole can drop out of the rivet and down into your engine.

Closed versions of those rivets are available that are guaranteed to capture the mandrel and close off the center hole. Those are the ones to use. Go to https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening. ... ers/rivets to learn more.

I really don't think original valve covers would have come with POP rivets. Semi-tubular rivets, like the shiny ones you have, are cheaper and can be installed quicker (with production equipment).

If you use the semi-tubular rivets, I would recommend properly roll forming the inside end with a roll form rivet tool.

Your rivets appear to have a very bright polished surface finish. If you use epoxy it would be a good idea to roughen that area with sandpaper and flare the inside end with a tapered punch, so the epoxy will stick and if not, make it more likely it won't slide right off.

[Daz1968]

Looking at the original one, maybe the weslake one was fitted when it was made, then the Austin or Morris badge added after engine assembled to tie in with the identity of the assembled car, hence the different rivets. Blind rivets would not need the cover removing
Just a guess though, I have a few originals will have a look

[AndyPen]

Looking at the original one, maybe the weslake one was fitted when it was made, then the Austin or Morris badge added after engine assembled to tie in with the identity of the assembled car, hence the different rivets. Blind rivets would not need the cover removing
Just a guess though, I have a few originals will have a look

I have come to the conclusion that some were done that way, just before the sticker versions came in. Been chatting to a Morris Minor specialist who knew what I was on about right away.

Thanks for all the helpful comments folks

[ChrisM]

After installing the Weslake badge with semi hollow rivets and making a right mess of it, can someone point me in the direction of the correct setting tool you need to do this? I hunted online, but for some reason (probably me), I can't find the correct tools.

Cheers.

[MiNiKiN]

After installing the Weslake badge with semi hollow rivets and making a right mess of it, can someone point me in the direction of the correct setting tool you need to do this? I hunted online, but for some reason (probably me), I can't find the correct tools.
Cheers.

Look for " Gedore rivetting setters and snap dies" on Amazon

[Fanfaniracing]

I made myself a Tool to compress them properly like original. Will post a Pic when i go to my Shed the next time.

[Minimat20]

Yeah making a tool isn't too hard but you can also do it the old school way.
Put the rivet through and make sure that 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet in length is protruding from the backside. Then you peen it over with a ball peen hammer. The peen end of the hammer will create a mushroom like head. The goal is to mimic the shape of the rivets round head. Any difficulty will be in trying to have the badge tight on the valve cover. Easily fixed with a couple more taps on a solid surface(without ruining the round head(s)).
Thats how I was taught in my first year of machinist school anyway!
I'd do it before painting tho!

[Polarsilver]

downton.JPG

my attempt is as shown .. made two rivet snap tools ..took a length of 1/2 inch square section steel cut into 2 inch lengths & made the ends square .. drilled down the end on one section just a bit shorter that the sticking through Rivet shank .. the other tool was ground out into a finish Dome shape cup .. (note my alloy Rivets to be used were supplied as Dome Head so i file off 50% of that Dome Head ).. so then place the Rivet in the Dome end shape on the top of Rivet tool (which is held in the vice) .. cut the Rivet shank to suitable length & with the other Tool compress the Rivet with a Hammer Blow or the Downton Dadge was Riveted using the Vice to compress the Rivet because of no room to use the Hammer.
Yes not OE but it suits my needs.