Standard S box on a rally Mini?

[Brynmor]

OK i'm looking at prepping the Mk1, safety requirements aside,engine front is sorted but i'm stuck on the box...

Does anyone rally with the standard S box? It's more that I can't afford the £1k plus for a proper box and would rather get out there....
Also anyone any advice on ride heights?

Cheers
Brynmor

[Pete]

I can't see anything wrong with a road spec gearbox for road rallying. Plus the big advantage is the nav won't have to shout above the racket a straight cut box will make !
'JFO' does sit a little low mate, and despite what I was expecting on my first rally recently I'd now say a sump guard is a must even for road rallies !

[Brynmor]

I'm on about forest Pete...
Watched the 2nd round of British Historics series yesterday and there was not a single Mini out....

I'm much rather the get out there and use what I have rathen than spend ££££ making a minter you wouldn't want to use...

[Pete]

Ahhh I see....this what you need.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

[ivor badger]

a Triumph 2000 tail box is the right diameter, straight through and fits fore and aft inside the rear subframe.

[mk1]

If you are planning on doing forest events don't use JFO you will smash it to bits.

There is a good reason why there are very few historic minis doing forest rallies of any sort, look at the events they did well in back in the 60's there are very few non tarmac events and when they did do well the shells were scrap by the end of the event.

Minis & forests have never been an easy combo.

[Brynmor]

Hmmm fair point Mark, but it's that or sell it and buy something else and not sure I really want to buy something else...although for similar money I could get a decent clubman Impreza...
Or half an Rs2000...

[mk1rally]

You can do it fine on a standard S box of the engine is not too mad. Its Torque that kills the box, not HP. If it is in bits, I'd fit a centre pick up and a cross pin diff if it's not already got one. A LSD/TBD would be nice, but costly.

I run a 333 in my rally car, does the trick fine but is well prep'd.

Despite differnt views, I run a 3.7 diff too, plenty of top end if you require it and makes for a flexible drive. 100+mph is plenty quick enough!!

The trouble with forest is that it is hard on the shell. Think of waxoil undersealing the arches after every event! Tarmac doesn't shower the shell as much stone/gravel/crud (apart from Wheeton!) but the speeds are generally quicker and it's going to hurt more if it all goes wrong.

A sump guard is a must and I prefer the "Ski" Monte versions as you tend to slid over the offending items. And the there are some, often classic stage is run after the main event and the forest tracks are well and truely rutted, not ideal for 10 inch rims!! Hilo's and decent shocks, uprated mounts. Skidded system, tucked right up out of the way, protection over the battery box, welded subframes plus all the safety items if it's not already fitted.

Tyres (when you can get them!) £100+ a corner and event will kill at least 2. You always need 6 good ones at any one time.

If your car is really nice, I would consider building another one if you want to give your all. Please remember though, a rally shell needs to be as good as a any resto shell without the shiny paint. It needs to be strong, light and straight. Plus don't be afraid to scratch it a little!! it happens

Funnily enough, the most recent car I drove on a event made me rethink my approach. It was very simple, no fancy bits and solid. Proveing that you don't need the latest and greatest, just strong and reliable.

[Brynmor]

Yes know what you mean, on reflection i'm actually thinking of moving JFO on rather than wreck it. It was my dads car and not really mine so whenever i'm driving it , it almost feels like someone else's property..lol

Any offers..