Drip rails

[Daz1968]

Does anyone have any tips for fitting new m machine drip rails, problem is they are straight but the gutter curves in at ends, I don't have a shrinker stretcher so need to do with normal panel beating tools if possible, any guidance would be appreciated,

Thanks
Darren

[dklawson]

I cannot comment specifically about the M-Machine parts. I had a former employer make the drip rails for my car based on measurements from the rusty parts I removed. As with your M-Machine parts, my drip rails were straight and I had them made a bit long. I did not try using shrinking or stretching equipment to add the end curves.

Instead I drilled a series of holes down through the roof gutters. I don't remember the exact spacing but I think they were about 4" (100mm) apart... maybe a bit closer together at the ends. I clamped the end of the rail at the front and plug welded the first hole. I moved the clamp back a bit and forced the drip rail in slightly to start to follow the curve of the gutter. Then I made the second weld. I kept this up, moving a clamp down between the last hole and the next hole to plug weld. I kept that up front to back. As I neared the back I cut off the excess length of the drip rail and made the last couple of welds.

Some tweaking of the bent edge of the drip rails was required... but not much. After dressing the plug welds a bit so they were not proud of either surface I applied a thin coat of seam sealer over the joints. I was very pleased with the results.

[Andrew1967]

I drilled holes in the strip and brazed them on.

Braze strip in first hole at front and then whilst still warm the strip can be carefully eased round and then clamped at the back and along the strip with double moles and then braze the other holes up.

Old fashioned oxy-acetylene still plays a part

[mk1]

I agree with Andrew, Fix it at one end and just work your way down. They conform just fine.

[Daz1968]

thanks,

I will be spot welding them on but can apply heat with a propane torch to help. I was unsure if I needed to bend before fitting but looks like it will be easier to do in situ

Darren

[BLT]

I bent mine. Just cut 4 slits about 5-8mm in and up to around 2" from the end then clamped in vice a bent, the bend being more pronounced at the very end. Then spot welded on. Will probably weld up the slits later although they're invisible. Having said all that, did think of doing it as those above and probably would have been quicker/easier. Back end has a bit of a curve too.

[Aussie Bill B]

I made a pair up myself (weren't available anywhere then) and glued them onto the gutter - the glue excludes water/moisture which is a major rust source in that location.

[winabbey]

As a bit of trivia, I understand the drip moulding on Australian Minis from late 1964 on is unique. It may be a bit hard to see on this drawing but the profile has a distinct bend upwards before coming down to the outer edge and folding back under itself with about a 3mm lip. I think the UK moulding is flatter and has about a 6mm lip, but happy to be corrected. Some people have used this difference as a way of quickly identifying a UK body from an Australian one.

HYA3262 Drip Moulding Part.jpg

[Macker2]

Yip, plug weld and work your way long. Or tack and whack is the technical term I think.