Like a total knobber, I've gone and mixed up the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th bellcrank levers (rod-change box).
Which one is which? i.e. which one goes on top and which one goes on the bottom?
Cheers
bellcrank levers
- YMJ
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:31 pm
- Location: Beyond the Sun
- Spider
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 4864
- Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 6:10 am
- Location: Big Red, Australia
- Has thanked: 208 times
- Been thanked: 80 times
Re: bellcrank levers
Reverse is the long one and that's fitted first.
If you look at the fork where the selector lever goes, one is ground to a taper on one side only, the other is on both side, the one that is done on both sides is 3rd / 4th and that goes on next.
The one that's only ground to a taper on one side is 1st / 2nd and that goes on last.
If you look at the fork where the selector lever goes, one is ground to a taper on one side only, the other is on both side, the one that is done on both sides is 3rd / 4th and that goes on next.
The one that's only ground to a taper on one side is 1st / 2nd and that goes on last.
- YMJ
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:31 pm
- Location: Beyond the Sun
- rich@minispares.com
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 6806
- Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:16 pm
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: bellcrank levers
don't forget to put the thin washers between the crabs claws as well, I stripped a 'difficult' box once that had been rebuilt by an 'expert' with all the washers put between the locating boss and the bottom claw
the change was horrific on it
the change was horrific on it

- YMJ
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:31 pm
- Location: Beyond the Sun
Re: bellcrank levers
Yes, that's clearly shown in all my manuals but unfortunately the difference in shape between the two bellcrank levers is not. So when you drop them on the floor and pick them up again, unless you've remembered the differences, you're buggeredrich@minispares.com wrote:don't forget to put the thin washers between the crabs claws as well, I stripped a 'difficult' box once that had been rebuilt by an 'expert' with all the washers put between the locating boss and the bottom claw
the change was horrific on it

- rich@minispares.com
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 6806
- Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:16 pm
- Been thanked: 2 times
Re: bellcrank levers
the taper/flat method that spider mentions is the easy way, but when its built if you look at the way the sharkfin rotates through the levers you can see where the tapers need to beYMJ wrote:
Yes, that's clearly shown in all my manuals but unfortunately the difference in shape between the two bellcrank levers is not. So when you drop them on the floor and pick them up again, unless you've remembered the differences, you're buggered
I bet it has caught loads of people out through the years



- YMJ
- 1275 Cooper S
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:31 pm
- Location: Beyond the Sun
Re: bellcrank levers
Thanks
By-the-way, what does "excessive wear in the selector forks" actually mean? Is there a tolerance I can measure.
Quite frankly, they both seem a bit "sloppy" but on individual inspection, they look OK
By-the-way, what does "excessive wear in the selector forks" actually mean? Is there a tolerance I can measure.
Quite frankly, they both seem a bit "sloppy" but on individual inspection, they look OK