HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post any technical questions or queries here.
Post Reply
jl46
Basic 850
Posts: 99
Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 3:42 am
Location: Rochester, NY 14620 USA
Has thanked: 1 time

HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by jl46 »

Hello All,
We are finishing up the installation of the hydrolastic system on a 1966 MCS.

We have tested the system with air. It seems to have a small leak as the suspension will drop
after a few days. We replaced the Schrader Valve in part# 13H1705 with a "standard" shrader valve
as used with tires. No change....still have small leak.

Questions:
Is there a "special" sharader valve that needs to be used in 13H1705 ?
If so, who might sell them ?
Do we need to replace the whole Hydrolastic Bleed Valve assembly, part # 13H1705 ?
Any other ideas ?

Thanks,
Jim
User avatar
LDR209H
998 Cooper
Posts: 414
Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:46 pm
Location: Margit,Kent
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by LDR209H »

Why are you convinced it's the valve ? I'd pump it up with fluid,then you'll see the leak ! Most likely a union or displacer flexible.
Daz1968
1275 Cooper S
Posts: 1440
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 1:41 pm
Location: Oldbury west midlands

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by Daz1968 »

A bit of soapy water will test the valve as well, you could then go over the joints with it as well if you wanted. But easiest way is to just pull the vacuum in the system and fill with fluid.
User avatar
Spider
1275 Cooper S
Posts: 4850
Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 6:10 am
Location: Big Red, Australia
Has thanked: 184 times
Been thanked: 65 times

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by Spider »

The Valves are the same ones used in tyres.

But, as the other guys have said, fill it with fluid, you may in fact find it doesn't leak, but if it does, it will be easy to find.
minicentie
Basic 850
Posts: 65
Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:23 pm

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by minicentie »

The system is build to work with pressure,not vacuum.
The only reason it needs to be vacumed is to leave as little air in as possible,because it could rust from inside.
So pressure the system and look after a copple of days f the car is still square on it's feet.
Do not try to check the pressure again,because you will let a little bit of pressure bleed out every time. And you will think it has lost ,but acctually it didn't; You did.
The pump is not perfect,we had to rebuild and tune it to work beter than ever (churcill pump) .
66S

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by 66S »

The valve is the same one used in tractor tyres that have water added as traction ballast. Talk to a tractor shop or a rural tyre outfit that repairs tractor tyres.

Regards
Al
andy1071
998 Cooper
Posts: 268
Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:04 am
Location: Sweden
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by andy1071 »

The Schrader valve is only there to allow you to pressurise the system (be it hydrolastic suspension or a tyre).
It is not a reliable seal.
-The cap is the seal!
-Look inside a metal cap and you'll see the seal....
66S

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by 66S »

andy1071 wrote:The Schrader valve is only there to allow you to pressurise the system (be it hydrolastic suspension or a tyre). ...
Andy,
I totally disagree with that. The valve cap (or dust cap) is there to stop dust entering the valve core seat and ruining the seal. A valve cap will not prevent a valve core leak.

Regards
Al
andy1071
998 Cooper
Posts: 268
Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:04 am
Location: Sweden
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by andy1071 »

The valve is not a reliable seal.
They are subjected to high G forces and bumps when used on a wheel.
They do move and leak.
- This is information I have received from tyre companies, when working with them during vehicle testing/development.

I would not run a vehicle without caps, but if anyone wants to, that's fine with me. I come only share the information.
66S

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by 66S »

I spent many years with tractors, on our farm and later when I served my Diesel Engineering Apprenticeship. Schrader water valve cores are not prone to leaking and unlike air, it is pretty easy to spot if they do. I'll leave it at that.

Regards
Al
rogerotto66s
998 Cooper
Posts: 603
Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2018 8:29 am
Location: Collegeville,PA USA

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by rogerotto66s »

Just pumped up the LH side of my 1966 “S” with no leaks!
I used my grease gun set-up


89699687-F67A-4366-876A-C5D1FEA74AF0.jpeg


When I disconnected my grease gun from the RH side the liquid ran out through the shrader valve - 13H1705 (much to my surprise). Seems the valve core was not properly seated. I purchase a tool and was able to tighten the valve core. Re-pumped the system and all is OK now.

Here is my shrader valve, valve core and the tool I purchased.

11CCCBE3-9C75-4101-9894-71210B5C118A.jpeg

The tool has these 4 functions - remove valve core, re-tap threads inside, re-tap threads outside and ream inside valve.



Both a local farm/tractor supply and industrial fittings supply were unable to provide a replacement shrader valve which fit the Hydrolastic elbow. This surprised both of them! Perhaps reading is different.

Also purchased a package of valve cores and was surprised to see they were quite different from the one in the above picture.

So ... it appears shrader valves are not universally the same.

I was able to purchase a used “mini” shrader valve from my “go to” mini supplier.

I am now looking for a single “metal” cap for one of my shrader valves. Does anyone have an extra?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Roger Williams
1966 Austin Cooper S - LHD - Wet - Personal Export
User avatar
Peter Laidler
1275 Cooper S
Posts: 6397
Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 5:35 pm
Location: Abingdon Oxfordshire
Has thanked: 138 times
Been thanked: 118 times

Re: HYDROLASTIC SCHRADER VALVE

Post by Peter Laidler »

I've made hydrolastic a bit of a pet hate subject. Agree with Rogerotto (above) entirely. I've only ever used a grease-gun type pump and have it down to a fine art. Leaky valves......., what's the problem? Just go to your local Tesco or chemist and buy a small pack of INTERDENTAL brushes. The sort that you brush between your teeth with. There's a few different shapes, colours and harshness. Remove the valve cores and scrub out the valve housing. Insert new standard car tyre valve. Tighten up as per Roger and they'll be fine.

The hydro system might be crap....., a frill if not a direct fraud (only my opinion of course.......) but the schrader valves are as good as it gets and have been since we started pumping air into tyres
Post Reply