Early clutch

[Daz1968]

I have a 1962 mini with the coil spring clutch, i have a problem when changing down the gearbox with crunching and difficulty changing gear. The clutch started slipping so I stripped it down and changed the plate and put a new oil seal on the crank so all is good on that side. Currently I am having to double clutch to drive the car. I have all new hydraulics and today changed the arm and Clevis pins to make sure no wear. When I adjust the clutch the distance between the housing and overthrow nut is only about 2mm should this be enough to disengage the coil clutch. I don't think the synchro is worn and suspect the clutch is not disengaging fully. I am at a loss as to how to confirm this before removing the engine. I also can't see anything I can do to get any more travel. Any help or guidance would be appreciated as it's spoiling the driving experience.
The gearbox is the original 3 synchro unit so if it's this that's worn could be awkward to get parts so I really need to be sure before starting down this road.

Thanks

[Andrew1967]

How far from the floor does the clutch start to engage ?

In case you do need any early gearbox parts, I have quite a few NOS parts for both the cone type synchro and A type gears.

[Daz1968]

The clutch engages near the bottom of the pedal stroke, it feels a little clunky when selecting gears stationary but downshift is difficult when moving. Main thing I need to establish is if the problem is clutch or gearbox so I don't waste time and money doing the wrong job. I have minimised clearance on stop adjustment to about 15 thou rather than 20 thou to see if it helps. I know early gearboxes are not the best but it's done very little mileage and everything else was perfect. I found a link that showed adjusting the stop with a 1/8 drill but mine is moving nowhere near this amount. The actual slave cylinder is moving approx 1/2 inch when depressing pedal.
Thanks

[Andrew1967]

It sounds more like clutch than gearbox to me.

Have you replaced the clutch hose, as they can cause problems.

The plunger that the release bearing fits onto and the arm fits into can wear badly and results in a loss of clutch travel.

Without checking my cars, I'm not sure whether 1/2" push rod travel is enough or not.

[Daz1968]

Thanks, clutch hose was new along with new seals in master cylinder, and new slave but it's non genuine. Also now fitted new plunger rod to slave cylinder and new arm with Clevis pins, the bottom piece in the housing shows no noticeable wear. I also know the Clevis on master cylinder is a good fit as not long refitted it. If anyone can measure travel on slave and the actual amount the clutch plunger travels it would be appreciated, I also checked my primary gear when replacing clutch and it is well within limits on end play.
I really hope it's nothing to bad but at the moment just need to find what the problem is.