mk1-forum.net

I was talking to a mate more keen to racing that was thinking to make a Mini into FIA Specs. However he still hasn't found many info about those kind of modifications.
We know that we have to install a roll cage and a cut off switch. However, what do we need to do more? Any document to consult?
Could you help him (and me because I'm interested as well ) ?

Apologies for my English (I'm becoming more rustier than ever)...

You could start here.....

http://www.fia.com/resources/documents/ ... 2006_a.pdf


However, what is written and is purported to be the official rules is not always applied. The first example is gearbox. The majority of competitors are using dog engagement gearboxes which are specifically not allowed by the written word yet are allowed by way of the "blind eye" process, as participation in most series are by invitation. Also, if you were to build a car strictly to the letter of these rules you could argue the legitimacy of the modern forged after market connecting rods and different types of differentials being used.

My advice would be decide in which series you are going to race in and speak to other competitors and preparers and see what they are doing and what is allowable in that series. Otherwise you could spend serious money and be uncompetitive.

I am currently building another car for the Masters Series and starting from scratch including the cost of buying an 850 "donor" Mini, I can tell you the build cost is £35,000.00 for a competitive car with no profit in that. A complete drive train from a leading engine builder, all new forged crank, rods, pistons, dog box LSD, 1.5" SU's and Maniflow exhaust system will cost around £15K alone.

Add the cost of a T45 cage to keep weight down and shell preparation, safety equipment, even one set of Rose Petals and tyres at £1000.00 a time, you can see where the money goes.

No wonder top running cars are changing hands for over £40,000.00!!

Good luck!

All the above is true but, and there is a big but. It can be don MUCH cheaper. Maybe not the most powerful Mini, but suspension and a good driver can make up for a 10hp deficit.

Vegard,

I don't disagree that you could do it for less, it depends on your own capabilities, what you expect the finished article to look like and how competitive you wish to be.

I disagree that a good driver is going to make up a 10hp disadvantage against someone like Nick Swift who is clearly the man to beat in the Masters Series.

One other piece of advice I would give to this post originator is carefully plan your budget before you start and allow a large contingency. I am not aware of your previous competition experience therefore awareness of costs but assumed you are doing this with your mate as a first competition foray.

So many well intended projects run out of cash before they get finished.

Mike wrote:Vegard,

I don't disagree that you could do it for less, it depends on your own capabilities, what you expect the finished article to look like and how competitive you wish to be.

I disagree that a good driver is going to make up a 10hp disadvantage against someone like Nick Swift who is clearly the man to beat in the Masters Series.

This I agree on. It depends on what you want to do. If you want to race, you can build a car for £15.000. If you want to win, then it takes at least the double as you say. What I mean is that you can build a FIA MK1 for not much money. All it takes is a sound body with a cage, seat and harness.

Interesting thread.. But everybody knows the adage : Speed costs money, kid. How fast do you want to go ?

Thanks so much for the replies. In fact, me and my mate want to have a competitive car to go to hillclimbing and some rallyes called sport. Those are organized by local clubs according to the FIVA rules in wich we can make some modifications.
Our plan is a 2/3 years one to complete the project. This winter we were intending to prepare the body. That's why I wanted to know what sort of things would be necessary to pay attention.

I guess you're right by saying that to be competitive costs money. We know that and already have a budget to get a nice car. It is our idea to make a really good body with good components and after that try to have a nice set of suspension. The motor will be a real evolution during the years...

So, could you tell me what kind of things could we pay more attention to the body? Probably it is nearly everything ate the appendix mike gave me. I promess that I'll try to read

Regards

Nunecos,

My advice would be when starting with the body shell is to take special care to ensure the front and rear subframes are installed centrally to the chassis and in line with each other. Use shims if necessary to achieve this.

The wide variance of manufacturing tolerances on road cars was fine for Mrs Smith to pop to the shops but is not always perfect for a race car.

We have constructed a car mountable jig to ensure everything is in line as well as a front subframe jig on which we can measure camber, caster, toe and tracking changes in bump,. roll and pitch.

Understand the dynamics and you can engineer a solution

From a good straight shell and subframes as a starting point, you can develop your project without having to re-visit and alter things.

Good luck.

Mike, that is top honest advise
Many people start out on a low budget and sit at the back of the grid... they soon give up... if your gonna do it, do it right!

Thanks a lot for your replies. The restorations is starting this winter so all the informations gathering will be crucial.

Mike forgot to point out the thing (as far as I was concerned when I started my project)........is that unlike most cars and contemporary racecars, a FIA AppK racecar is a bombproof investment insofar as you'll get back what you spend. You may not make a profit but you'll have something that you can race, touch, polish and it'll still be worth the 15, 20, 30, 40 grand you spend on building it.

However, if I had a pound (£) for every person I knew who said "I'm gonna build a historic" and pulled out before completion (because of the sheer effort and expense involved), I'd have about 4 or 5 quid!

It is not a project to be undertaken lightly.

There is another thread currently on the forum concerning roll cages.

When I find it I will be posting my experience of dealing with Custom Cages, mentioned in the context of that thread.

You may wish to read it!

Mike wrote:There is another thread currently on the forum concerning roll cages.

When I find it I will be posting my experience of dealing with Custom Cages, mentioned in the context of that thread.

You may wish to read it!

I've already consulted the thread. However, because I'm from Portugal, it might be better to order one of safety devices, not the bolt on type but the welded one.

YMJ wrote: However, if I had a pound (£) for every person I knew who said "I'm gonna build a historic" and pulled out before completion (because of the sheer effort and expense involved), I'd have about 4 or 5 quid!
It is not a project to be undertaken lightly.

Thanks for the advice. I still haven't grabed one piece of paper and make the effort of how much I will be spending because it is a project to take some time. So far, I'll be just concerned with the body, but I'm aware that I will spend big money with the project.

Nunecos,

Buy a Safety Devices one for sure!

Mike

If you take your time and undertake as much work possible yourself, you will save a substantial amount. It's when you rush things, that it gets expensive.

YMJ wrote:If you take your time and undertake as much work possible yourself, you will save a substantial amount. It's when you rush things, that it gets expensive.

The body will start the work, but it won't be me... It will be a really long project...