mk1-forum.net

Hello guys

I will install a 13 rows oil cooler on my car,

How was originally fitted oil cooler on cooper s mk2?

Of course I know that I have to useoil cooler bracket sold on every minishop

But how it was fixed? on the subframe?

Do I need to remove the subframe for the installation?

Was the front panel bended or cut?

Do you have pictures of the bracket mounted?

thank you for your help!


Charles

This is how we used to fit them, the upward facing flange at the bottom of the grill aperture was bent back carefully, & drilled with 3/16" holes to suit the cooler, which was then attached with suitable nuts & bolts. (As seen on GRX 5D) We didn't use any extra brackets, the hoses connected to the engine prevented any great vibration. The photo shows the cooler in it's most forward position as we didn't have room for a grille, but it can be set further back using the other pair of holes, so a grille will fit over it.

Thank you for your help Lord Croker!

It's a nice idea.

I would like to use the original system,

As for me the front panel was bent and the oil cooler was fitted on 2 brackets,

But I don't know how was fitted the brackets

Thank you

The standard fitting was with brackets. Let me see if I can explain it without pictures. The brackets are L shaped and are used like an upside down L. The bottom of the bracket has one hole drilled through it which allows it to screw/bolt onto the front valance. The top of the bracket has two holes drilled through it, one to the front of the car, which ends up sitting under the bent over lip of the front panel (the hole in the front panel lip has to line up with the hole in the bracket). And then there is the bracket hole further back towards the engine. This hole lines up with the other oil cooler mounting hole.

If you see a picture my description might make sense

Lord Croker wrote:This is how we used to fit them, the upward facing flange at the bottom of the grill aperture was bent back carefully, & drilled with 3/16" holes to suit the cooler, which was then attached with suitable nuts & bolts. (As seen on GRX 5D) We didn't use any extra brackets, the hoses connected to the engine prevented any great vibration. The photo shows the cooler in it's most forward position as we didn't have room for a grille, but it can be set further back using the other pair of holes, so a grille will fit over it.

elf front lights - that's a strong look!

Thank ou very much,

I think I have understood,

can I just get a picture to be sure?

thank you

elf front lights - that's a strong look! [/quote]

Thanks Guru, they were fitted to allow the use of headlights without sidelight apertures, at the time Jaguar V12 E-Type sealed beams were all the rage because they had a greater light output than standard ones, & a mate worked for a Jag dealer! But to get back to the question, I have seen the oil cooler brackets as described, & if you want to go for full authenticity it is best to fit them, but as you might see from my photo, we were going for weight reduction, or rather trying to compensate for the weight of the extra rally equipment, fortunately we had a good start with it being a lightweight shell. (the front panel was not original)

Is this any help?



and a close up of the section X-X

Thank you for your help all that pictures!

do you think I need to remove engine/subframe to fix the bracket?

Or can I just remove the 2 towing eyes and their bolt, and pull on the front panel to drill the subframe?

thank you guys

the real question is, why putting an oïl cooler on a road car.......... too cold oïl is far more dangerous than too hot

Hello fred

This is not really a road car, I use it for track day and for my pleasure,

And the oil seems to burn, because 300 km after oil change, the oil becomes black and really dark,

The oil burns, because I use it on high revs,

This is a 1293cc
kent 286
fast road 29x36 cylinder head
MED preverto ultra light
med 1/1 SC drop gear
Aldon dizzy without vacum
3,44 final drive
etc..

The oil water still correct but the oil burns, I used to have castrol 20W50, Now I use Millers 20w50

I would like to fit it exactly as it was fitted on cooper S.

I'd fit a temp gauge before I'd fit a cooler.....

what aout oil color?

I don't have temp gauge because I don't want to drill the gearbox

Thank you vegard

You could fit the oil temperature sender through the sump drain plug and avoid drilling the gearbox casing. Minispares (and many others) sell a sump plug that is drilled and tapped for the sender.



Tim

on my mini, with cooler and miller cvt, the temps gauge never go upper than 60° at the end off a long rally stage, my engine is a 1310 A+, 286 cam, 37/29.5 stg 3 head, 11.5cr, 1.5 full roller, straigt cut box and drop gear with tranex lsd, i need to cover the rad to have a good oïl temps

Thank you tim

I agree with you Fred,

But, when you do a long trip the oil is inneficient after 2 or 3 hours of driving,

You're right the better is to cover it when the temperature is cold

On one car, I fitted a T piece to the Oil Cooler Inlet and then plumbed the temp sender in there.

I say fit a cooler for sure, but also make a lift off blind for it too

Hi Lord Crocker
Was the car club name on door Redditch & District Car Club as I am a current member? If so, what was the year please and the names of the crew.

Here you we can see a good view of a "S" front panel!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

thanks to mini works

hanlminiman wrote:Hi Lord Crocker
Was the car club name on door Redditch & District Car Club as I am a current member? If so, what was the year please and the names of the crew.

That is indeed Redditch & District Car Club on the door of the car. It was 1977 & the crew were Driver: Rich Wignall, Nav: John Stevens. We used to meet at 'The Crown' at Haselor. As far as I know, the only person I would know at that club now, is Russell Brookes.