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Bought a 1100 engine and box complete unseen, removed clutch housing , going to remove flywheel bolt and found its a 30 mm not 11/2 inch as supposed to be and could see the flywheel had turned on the crank ,after removing the flywheel found the taper chewed up and also the slot in the end of the crank as elongated,
Can it be repaired and what is the procedure ????????????and as the flywheel been lightened ???? Take a look at photos

Found this small piece of metal in the sump plug hole after i drained the oil, Not split the engine and box as yet, So i am in the dark ,Anybody out there guess what it is ?????

This engine is a straight forward 1100 i was told and is goldseal engine , The rear as the blanking plate for the fuel pump and no engine tag , Looks like it was never drilled for the tag, Also the engine Number rivets have been machined of as though the block as been faced, single carb ,1100 gearbox with remote that bolts in the side rather than underneath, then i remove the rocker box and its got a 12G295 head fitted, That could be the savior as it should cover the cost of the unit if the rest is scrap.

Thanks
Goff

ouch!!

Pete

Short answer - yes

Slightly longer answer - not worth repairing, it would cost a bomb and those cranks aren't too hard to find, even ones in servicable condition!

Spider how would this crank be repaired ,Would it be welded then machined ??????????????? If so would it be welded with Manual Arc , Tig or ??????????

Any idea what the broken piece of metal that came out of sump plug hole is ?????????, Anybody ,
Thanks
Goff

Forgot to say the small piece of metal photo is next to a ballpoint pen to give idea of size
Again any ideas
Thanks
Goff

your little bit looks like a tooth

maybe off the pinion looking at the size of the root, but its difficult to see in the picture

One upon a time when my guys were reconditioning submarine crankshafts they would lay down a series of welds parallel to the crank centreline and then re-machine to stock. I'm sure the same technique would work on a Mini crank.

You would not want to ask "how much?"...

I think I would be perusing the classifieds

Cheers, Ian

goff wrote:Forgot to say the small piece of metal photo is next to a ballpoint pen to give idea of size
Again any ideas
Thanks
Goff

Hmmm, looks like a bit off a sleeve or a hollow dowel, but it is cast. Maybe a piece from a broken rocker (that may have since been changed?) Anything would be a guess until you pull it right down.

There is a good engine rebore-regrind place out at Bawtry that i have been told ,So will have a run down next week to see what they say, As to welding that was what i did until i retired, But every application in the welding is different , Carbon steels ect,
Yes Spider it does look like a dowel and its magnetic
Let you all know when i strip it

Goff

The lads at the machine shop in Bawtry are very good. Can't remember the name, but pretty sure there's only one. Father and son run it and the son is a bit of an a series expert.

Crankshafts are usually repaired or stroked by submerged wire fed arc welding. It's not an uncommon process. It's probably a bit too expensive for an 1100 but might be worth it to reclaim an 'S' crankshaft.

Kelley

Did a research on the webb and it appears that cranks are welded using the sub arc process as maschers says, That's fully automatic welding and once set up will weld a journal in minutes, it would be a perfect weld as well so no going back for repairs after grinding ,If welding by hand using mig ,stick would take ages but can be done, cost is the factor £££,
OK, this crank if it does not need a re-grind and only the taper needs repairing ,i will cost up the machining ££and if not to expensive , i will weld it ( i have time as i am retired ) and have it turned back to size, going to strip it next week , I will let you all know !

The small piece of metal that came out of the sump/gearbox , Just looked at it again and it looks like part of a valve guide , but how could a piece of valve guide get inside the sump/gearbox, going to take the head of today as its getting the better of me ,Curiosity that is! might even strip the engine and box as the wife is going to get me gardening, Huh

Thanks for your reply's
regards
Goff

They can also be metal sprayed as well for reclaiming.

Welding it - by what ever method - is actually the easy part, you then need to stress relieve it and still have it come out relatively un-bent. If it's not stress relieved, then i) some of the stresses from welding will come out as it is machined / ground changing it's shape and direction (ie, it will bend) and ii) it has a reasonably good change of breaking in service.

This is why it costs big time and it's usually only the bigger diesel cranks (that cost shit loads) that are done. Even a Cooper S crank would be touch & go as to whether it's financially worth while.

Stanwood Hunter, or Arnetts for your machining, if you're in the Doncaster area. I have a crank, if you're interested, I'm in Brigg.

Hi just an update on the crank ect,
Removed the gearbox and center main + 1 big end ,also the head , It as 1 odd piston that has been battered by whatever ,Shells worn out, I could lift the crank from the clutch end up and down , So its well worn, Just left it were it is as i have another crank that as gone for a regrind to Stanwood Hunter at Bawtry, They know there stuff,
Found more bits in the gearbox /sump ,Including a collet ,I reckon that the other broken parts are a valve guide, how they got in the box who knows, Maybe they used the box as a bench,Have a look at the photos ,also the gold paint on the oil pump side that had been washing of into the sump ,Don't think BMC would have painted inside a engine ????????
Thanks
Goff

1071 S wrote:One upon a time when my guys were reconditioning submarine crankshafts they would lay down a series of welds parallel to the crank centreline and then re-machine to stock. I'm sure the same technique would work on a Mini crank.


Cheers, Ian

I am certain that it wouldn't. The one I had repaired was welded, but much harder used than an 1100 crank. It failed when the end fell off with the flywheel. I have never thrown it out because of what it is/was. I must rig up picture posting for photo.

There is no point even thinking about repairing that crank.

The cost of the repair would be enough to buy about 5 excellent replacements.

Keep that unit for its nuts and bolts & find a better one to start with, if you really can't find one, contact me direct I have an excellent low mileage 1100 unit from a Morris 1100 that I would want not too much for.

M.

Mark that's what i am doing with the engine just keeping it for bits, I have another engine and the crank as gone for a regrind, Its just a update after i stripped it all down,
Should get my money back for what i paid as its got the 12G295 head, so i reckon it started life as a MG 1100, but got abused along the way.
Thanks for the offer
Goff