mk1-forum.net

Wasn't sure which category to put this under, but here goes...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330922773468

Does this seem too good to be true? There's good feedback left relating to the same item, and MED are selling this flywheel (actually not lightened as much as this one) for more than twice that price?

What do you think?

Thom

I was warned against using one. I was told that they are likely to fret and weld its self on to the crank. I purchased an minispares ultralite in the end, and when it went for balancing it didn't need any work except selective orientation of the rest of the components.

Graham, thanks for the reply.

I'm really grateful for that information, as looking at it now is all too tempting...

I'll probably go with a minispares one like yourself, sounds about right!

Many thanks ,

Thom

the trouble with flywheels as light as this is that for many applications they are just too light to be any practicable use, the other issue is that so much material is removed the heat has no where to sink away, so in a car that has a lot of clutch friction (i.e a paddle clutch and a lot of power) the flywheels blue themselves up and start to move around. this is why racers will replace the assembly after a set period of time.

the most important thing to check on a flywheel like this (and the hardest thing for the maker to get right) is the quality and size of the taper, and the position of the actual flywheel in relation to the taper cut into it.

ive seen loads of aftermarket flywheels that don't fit as they should due to manufacturing problems, this can cause all sorts of fitment and clearance problems if its not right.

this is nothing against the maker of this flywheel, but its always worth considering that a flywheel can cause a lot of damage, hassle and expense if its not right for the job!

That's really great information Guru,

It definitely is practical, in terms of the heat displacement, to not to use something this heavily modified for road use unless it wants to be changed all the time...

As said, i don't think i'll risk it on this one!

Many thanks for your time,

Thom

I happily use a superlight flywheel in a road-car.

Don't forget that the standard flywheel is heavier than it needs to be to cope with: production tolerances, your granny slipping the clutch because she drives everywhere in 2nd gear, etc, etc.

Guru_1071, you are correct that a light flywheel doesn't have so mush heat-sink.
But the heat is from slipping the clutch. -You shouldn't be slipping paddle-type clutches, -or any that have 'metallic' race-type friction materials. Sorry to appear a bit pedantic

I agree with your other comments.

andy1071 wrote:
Guru_1071, you are correct that a light flywheel doesn't have so mush heat-sink.
But the heat is from slipping the clutch. -You shouldn't be slipping paddle-type clutches, -or any that have 'metallic' race-type friction materials. Sorry to appear a bit pedantic

I agree with your other comments.

it doesn't stop people doing it though, I saw a flywheel the other week that was blued all the way to the ring gear!

Flywheels like htis has been used alot in race-engines..

Is this the 'sub-contractor' that does flywheels for SH Engineering or just a copy??

http://www.shengineering.co.uk/sh/content/mini-flywheel

I've been using this exact flywheel in my MG Metro racecar for two years with no issues. I also use their alloy backplate again no problems.

Must say I like the way they've cnc'd the casting/forging marks into it...........

I must admit, it looks like it's been in the sea for 60 years and then polished.

However, I am sure it's EN16T

E-Bay listing says they're shot peened.......

They are made by a guy called Daren who has a company called A and R precision.
ive had no issues with his stuff, ive used his rods in our aston engines and had no issues.
he dose have some pretty specialst kit and does alot of MOD and aerospace work.