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I had stored this for years. I was about to rebuild it when I found the obvious (not).

Rubbish?

Can't recommend your storage facility....

Although, the lightweight versions are worth more.... if you have the missing bit, araldite works (for a while) - at least until you find someone who can solder properly..

BTDT

Cheers, Ian

The necks are dead easy to solder back on. Use a paste solder and a little bit of heat from a small gas torch.

Tim

It's just come out of the acid dipping.
I'm prepared to give this away for the price of postage. Let's say £10.

Judging from the size of the foot on that can, it is a GT part, not a Cooper S one.

Thanks Tim, I'll try that. I have a very good original cylinder - in fact a matched pair for my S that have stainless sleeves. Years ago I had them zinc plated and the cleaning process ate some of the solder. They have lasted about 20 years but recently the necks fell of both cylinders.

My local "expert" has made a dogs dinner of resoldering the necks but I'm sure this could be cleaned off with a little heat. I haven't bothered because I couldn't find anyone who thought they could do a better job of the repair...

Cheers, Ian

I used "Kemtex B916 tinning compound" which is essentially just a suspension of solder powder in a flux. clean the area first, paint on a bit of the paste, then heat it with a torch. The tin is quite thin so it heats and cools quickly. If you work fast it won't melt the solder out of the other joints.

When I did mine I swapped the tin can for a better one off a later master cylinder. It was pretty easy to do.

Tim

The acid dip disolves the solder.... 'been there - done that...!

So you're saying that the neck is still present at the bottom of the bath?

Yes most likely...

I have a clutch mastercylinder (I was smart enough to test with one of those first) that is like a puzzle... all bits and pieces.

So, any solderers around here?

If anyone wants these, they can have them for free. I'll never even try soldering this.

Let me know...

Hi ,i would deffintly have a try to restaur them.
You can send them to me please.
Regards Johan

Those look like GT master cylinders to me - the wider "foot". I suppose later Cooper S may have also used them.

Abri is right. Those are ADO16 type, some of which were 0.75" bore instead of 0.7". Not a problem but not original.

Another educating post - can someone photo the two different types side by side so the less informed can tell the difference?
Got a feeling I've got the GT ones on my car but it took an S seal kit so must've the same bore.

doesn't the bigger bore one have a groove machined into its shank?

dim and distance memory.......