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ive just taken the flywheel off my race 1071 motor

big sykes hydraulic puller good and tight, stand back, tap the puller with a hammer and......


KABOOM!

the flywheel and the puller went five feet, the only thing that stopped it going any further was that it hit the vice and stopped

if it had hit me i think it would have broke my arm

im not ashamed to admit i screamed a little!

the taper is perfect, it must have been on there good and snug!

my heart rate still hasnt returned to its resting state, ive had to stop for a cup of tea!

in all the hundreds of flywheels ive tugged, this is the first one thats given me a fright like this!

Soo jealoux on that Sykes puller must pull myself together, and get one.


When I took a flywheel off, last summer, I tied a steel wire around the engine & into the puller, so it didnt "fly" too far.


Hope your heart is back to normal now.

I bolt some straps to the flywheel housing to catch it. In my opinion, one should not pull anything on a taper without putting something in place to stop it flying when it finally breaks the taper.

Al

JC T ONE wrote:Soo jealoux on that Sykes puller


.

ive got three of them now,

1 i leave at work, one brand new one in a box i use for best, and one old beater that i dont mind flogging with a hammer if i need to

they are a great thing, like all those period sykes tools, well made quality stuff

i wouldnt be without mine and the sykes primary gear puller and seal replacer

66S wrote:I bolt some straps to the flywheel housing to catch it. In my opinion, one should not pull anything on a taper without putting something in place to stop it flying when it finally breaks the taper.

Al

al

your right, its something im going to do in the future

my spindley body wouldnt have provided much of a stop!

That's why you put an old wheel and tyre under the flywheel housing when you stand to one side and tap the flywheel with a long handled hammer.

Olympic bronze medal...
kariya

I don't want to sound like a party pooper but that just sounds dangerous & stupid. Rather than using whatever the puller comes with to stick in the end of the crank, use a std flywheel bolt screwed in by hand & leave a 1/4 gap. That way when the taper breaks the flywheel doesn't take out your face, or worse, your balls.

Some of the flywheel bolts have a bump in the centre, just machine that bit off until its flat.
Also be careful that one of the 3 3/8 bolts don't pull out of the flywheel, they also can be nasty to the plums.

850man wrote: they also can be nasty to the plums.

Hey 850man, is that from experience? or just from living down south? or from driving that rust old 850 van? Bhahahahahahhaha

I have a bit of chain I bolt on to the transfer housing, across a couple of bolts for the clutch cover, it's a bit kinder to the crankshaft threads that way.

So, how was the ABD? Did you catch up with that old coot?

You should have gone up the Barosa with the Moke Club, you'd fit right in

850man wrote:I don't want to sound like a party pooper but that just sounds dangerous & stupid. Rather than using whatever the puller comes with to stick in the end of the crank, use a std flywheel bolt screwed in by hand & leave a 1/4 gap.

I ike the thinking, but I wouldn't want to be putting all the force of the puller through the threads of the bolt/crank, even with plenty of engagement. However turning up a small 1/4" collar that slipped over the bolt, so the force was transmitted onto the end of the crank might be just the ticket.

GraemeC wrote:

850man wrote:I don't want to sound like a party pooper but that just sounds dangerous & stupid. Rather than using whatever the puller comes with to stick in the end of the crank, use a std flywheel bolt screwed in by hand & leave a 1/4 gap.

I ike the thinking, but I wouldn't want to be putting all the force of the puller through the threads of the bolt/crank, even with plenty of engagement. However turning up a small 1/4" collar that slipped over the bolt, so the force was transmitted onto the end of the crank might be just the ticket.

i agree, your just putting loads through the threads in the crank that shouldnt be there, plus there would always be the chance that the crank bolt would wring off with the shock of the flywheel comming free.

i wouldnt use this method.

kariya wrote:Olympic bronze medal...
kariya

dammit, i wish id taken a photo with a tape measure now.

id have been collecting a gold medal!

guru_1071 wrote: there would always be the chance that the crank bolt would wring off with the shock of the flywheel comming free.
.

Ever seen a crank bolt fail? Witnessed one that just didnt seem to be tightening and assumed it had stripped its threads. However on inspection the middle had pulled out of it so as we tightened the the threaded section went deeper into the crank and just pulled out of the head Took us a while to twig as when we undid it to inspect the threads it wound itself back in so initially 'looked' fine!!

GraemeC wrote:

guru_1071 wrote: there would always be the chance that the crank bolt would wring off with the shock of the flywheel comming free.
.

Ever seen a crank bolt fail? Witnessed one that just didnt seem to be tightening and assumed it had stripped its threads. However on inspection the middle had pulled out of it so as we tightened the the threaded section went deeper into the crank and just pulled out of the head Took us a while to twig as when we undid it to inspect the threads it wound itself back in so initially 'looked' fine!!

graeme

yes, ive seen one snap flush with the end of the crank, the owner had put the locking dog the wrong way round (on a verto clutch, its easy to do) and had merrily wound the bolt in until it 'felt funny', when he tried to undo it, it snapped with surprising little effort.

opps