mk1-forum.net

Hey guys,
Has anyone got any ideas on improving engine mounts??
It drives me up the wall, trying to line up the holes. How did the works teams change their engines???
Any ideas????
Cheers
Colin

I have found that just about all the available engine mounts, even those in the Rover bags, are just a little too thick in recent years. It make's it seem that the engine is too wide or the subframe has shrunk!

With the engine sitting in the subframe, I loosen the 2 long bolts under the radiator first and this get that bracket to snuggle in that wee bit, then fit bolts in the radiator side engine mount, then I use a big Gee Clamp on the Clutch over-throw nuts and hook the other side of the Clamp under the side rial of the subframe, then you can tighten the Clamp and it pulls it down to let you get the bolts in the Clutch side.

I also use a big phillips screw driver to align the holes exact.

i mig weld two nuts to the engine mounts first then easy to fit
andy

handy andy wrote:i mig weld two nuts to the engine mounts first then easy to fit
andy

And put the bolts in upside down? Do you also throw away the spring washers to make sure the bolts fall out

We have found that the "Genuine" mounts are better than pattern ones - trying to fit two new pattern mounts requires lots of heavy people to jump on the engine to get it down into the frame!!

A small diameter 'podger' is a definite advantage, and then fitting the bolts the 'wrong way' temporarily to allow lining up is the usual way to get them fitted correctly.

Try to get some genuine NOS ones that have MOWOG and the part number stamped into them. They will fit with no problems at all. Maybe just a Phillips screwdriver in one of the holes to podgy the mounting over.

Use a piece of 1/16th welding wire wrapped round the thread under the bolt head to pass the bolt through the mounting on the rearmost hole on the clutch side. The rest are not difficult to get at. Once the bolt is through the hole and the washer on, then just yank the wire off with a pair of pliers.

no the bolts dont fall out
i leave spring washers on
never had any trouble provided you watch the heat to ensure the mounts dont get cooked
andy

Same problem. Also run welded nuts. Saves so much shouting and spanner throwing.

ive always been of the opinion that the bolts should be fitted correctly, i.e from the inside pointing down

its not exactly a difficult job....

guru_1071 wrote:ive always been of the opinion that the bolts should be fitted correctly, i.e from the inside pointing down

its not exactly a difficult job....

Its easy if you use genuine MOWOG items or old stock repro. Anything made recently is just too thick and is impossible or virtually impossible to fit without taking drastic action like noted above. If its not a 'neutral fit' then its not right.

I do agree Rich, that the bolts are not difficult to fit (if the mounts are OK) in the correct manner.

im fitting an engine tomorrow night using brand new rover mounts, so will report back!

That will be useful Rich

I leave the top bolt of the radiator bracket out and the bottom one a little loose. I then drop the engine in and fit the 4 bolts to the mounts through the subframe with the engine still suspended by the crane. I use a jack under the gearbox to lift it so I can fit the remaining long bolt.

I have used this method many times with genuine and non genuine mounts and it has worked every time.

guru_1071 wrote:im fitting an engine tomorrow night using brand new rover mounts, so will report back!

Check if your new rover mountings have the part number stamped on them or not.

Austin Cooper wrote:I leave the top bolt of the radiator bracket out and the bottom one a little loose. I then drop the engine in and fit the 4 bolts to the mounts through the subframe with the engine still suspended by the crane. I use a jack under the gearbox to lift it so I can fit the remaining long bolt.

I have used this method many times with genuine and non genuine mounts and it has worked every time.

That's a damn good and simple way!

Cleaver so-and-so

Cheers for sharing

Spider wrote:

Austin Cooper wrote:I leave the top bolt of the radiator bracket out and the bottom one a little loose. I then drop the engine in and fit the 4 bolts to the mounts through the subframe with the engine still suspended by the crane. I use a jack under the gearbox to lift it so I can fit the remaining long bolt.

I have used this method many times with genuine and non genuine mounts and it has worked every time.

That's a damn good and simple way!

Cleaver so-and-so

Cheers for sharing

ive always done them this way as well, maybe this is why i never have any problems!!

I just recently swapped a set of hard new mounts with old ones. Used the trolley jack under the gearbox method as well. It worked really nicely. The hardest part was getting the radiator back in place and fastening in the cowl. That must be one of the top 5 worst things to do on a mini.

well, i must be doing somthing wrong.....

plonked the engine in the frame - with the top bolt removed from the rad side bracket, poked the bolts through the right way, fitted the frame and engine to the car, bolted the frame in, jacked the rad side of the gearbox up, prised the rad mount bracket using a bar against the pulley, slid the bolt in, tightened everything up.

time taken, less than an hour

no problems whatsoever

admitadly, on an earlier car with the older style rad mount the job would have been more awkward, but there is nothing wrong with the mounts - its fitment error.

Not wishing to cause a dispute at all, however years ago, they just fit - no leaving bolts out or levering anything. Just fit the mounts to the engine, drop it in, slide in to place, line up the holes with a podgy bar, bolts in (the right way - from the top!) Job Done. These days they do seem a little thicker and need some manipulation.

Spider wrote:Not wishing to cause a dispute at all, however years ago, they just fit - no leaving bolts out or levering anything. Just fit the mounts to the engine, drop it in, slide in to place, line up the holes with a podgy bar, bolts in (the right way - from the top!) Job Done. These days they do seem a little thicker and need some manipulation.

i find that they always 'need a podge' from new, but once they have been used and settle a little the bolts just drop in.

the ones on my race car have been in and out so many times the bolts could, im sure, find their own way into the holes in a 'Sorcerer's Apprentice' style

guru_1071 wrote: i find that they always 'need a podge' from new, but once they have been used and settle a little the bolts just drop in.

the ones on my race car have been in and out so many times the bolts could, im sure, find their own way into the holes in a 'Sorcerer's Apprentice' style

Bhahahahahaah........LOL I do like that.......

Podge, sure, no issues there but these days they need an elephant to sit on them! I'm a little shy of them in the workshop these days!!
Even ones that have been in for about a year,,,,

But, the bolt out method sounds the go I can live with that for sure