How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
- mab01uk
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How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
Minifin leaflet from the 1970's I think, re-discovered along with much else in my long lost loft Mini archive, maybe some more to follow and any rare/early Mk1 stuff I will scan and send to Mark.
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
I thought the answer was going to be "take it to your local MOT station".
Everytime I take a car there it seems to get "tuned" to reduce its emissions.
This results in less power and it drinking more fuel. Who'd 'ave thought it possible ??
Everytime I take a car there it seems to get "tuned" to reduce its emissions.
This results in less power and it drinking more fuel. Who'd 'ave thought it possible ??
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
I remember my first car. A mildly worked Morris Minor 1098.
That was actually quite quick. I could pretty much beat anything to 30. My dad took it to the local garage and had it neutered. It was never the same although I tried setting it up using colourtune and a strobe.
My last mini engine (1340 with a 286) caused trouble with their emissions machine (not sure why they used it, it's a visual check). It almost sooted up the probe!
That was actually quite quick. I could pretty much beat anything to 30. My dad took it to the local garage and had it neutered. It was never the same although I tried setting it up using colourtune and a strobe.
My last mini engine (1340 with a 286) caused trouble with their emissions machine (not sure why they used it, it's a visual check). It almost sooted up the probe!
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
What year is your car? Because if it's pre 75 they should only be visually checking it! Tell them to feck off! Jobs worths! Hahapdaykin wrote:I thought the answer was going to be "take it to your local MOT station".
Everytime I take a car there it seems to get "tuned" to reduce its emissions.
This results in less power and it drinking more fuel. Who'd 'ave thought it possible ??
Ps great scans! I have one of those "crossflo" rocker covers. I never knew that's what they were called!
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- mab01uk
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
This A3 size Hi-Lo Mk2 flyer is also from the 1970's but was too big for my A4 scanner so I had to copy it in sections..........this is the Hi-Lo's inventor, the late Tony Chamings version patented in 1970 (also famous for pioneering and building the two 'Gomshall' spaceframe Super Saloon racing Mini's in the 1970's, as seen featured in Triple C magazine at the time. His second spaceframe Mini was featured in Mini Magazine March 2011 - see links below).
I also have the later Ripspeed Mk3 Hi-Lo flyer which is very similar after Tony Chamings sold the rights and patent to Keith Ripp.
From Keith Calver:
"The Hi-Lo was developed many moons ago, the rights to manufacture originally being purchased by Keith Ripp of 'Ripspeed' fame, where they have remained since. The original design used a long hex key to wind the large threaded bolt into which the knuckle joints were fitted in and out of the cast aluminium cone and had a small hex grub screw in the cone body to 'locate' the adjuster bolt in place once ride height was set. Visually it was quite different from the later models as it was slightly 'lighter' and have four vertical ridges spaced 90 degrees apart (the locating screw was situated in one of these, around half way up it). This was remodelled after a few years, doing away with the locating grub screw - deemed unnecessary since there was no movement of the adjuster bolt once set even without the grub screw - and incorporated a drilled 'drain' hole to allow water collected on top of the cone to drain away instead of corroding the cone and adjuster bolt into uselessness. The advent of the rubber mounted front subframes using the massive tower retaining bolts eventually saw rise of the third incarnation of the Hi-Lo. To aid adjustment without recourse to removing the tower bolts, and indeed having to drill access holes in the rear valance for the long hex key to reach the adjuster in the rear Hi-Los, the new design sported hex-ended adjuster bolts and a locating nut. This now meant ride height could be relatively easily adjusted using a pair of spanners."
"The original design was patented, so the Hi-Lo was the only adjustable spring platform of its type for the Mini for many, many years. Then the patent laws changed. When the original patent ran out, Ripspeed saw no need to renew it on this product. In hindsight, a foolish move as every Tom, Dick and Harry has had a go at producing their own versions. Some good, some appalling. Whatever the actual visual differences, they all incorporate the same adjustable spring platform (cone), using a long distance piece at the rear to connect the knuckle to the cone. Consequently they are all fitted in very much the same manner as the originals."
https://www.calverst.com/technical-info ... rivatives/
Tony Chamings
Bernard Bird (Gomshall Motor Co) – new Mini built (“price tag quoted by sponsor: £10 000”) – spaceframe (“main strength is centred around two steel tubes running from the rear suspension mounting points to an alloy bulkhead mounted directly behind the engine”) – Pete Vickers 8-port 1293 BL engine (130 bhp), but a 170 bhp BDA was expected to replace it. (MN 1-8-74) – to be driven by Tony Chammings (A/S 1-8-74) – for sale (A/S 6-2-75)
http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthr ... ?p=2645542
Mini Magazine - Gomshall Spaceframe Mini pdf
orchardviewgarage.com/resources/Gomshall-Mini-March-11.pdf
(I could only view this pdf file by searching for above on Google and then clicking on Quick View and opening it via Google Docs)
(Tony Chamings died in late 2010).
I also have the later Ripspeed Mk3 Hi-Lo flyer which is very similar after Tony Chamings sold the rights and patent to Keith Ripp.
From Keith Calver:
"The Hi-Lo was developed many moons ago, the rights to manufacture originally being purchased by Keith Ripp of 'Ripspeed' fame, where they have remained since. The original design used a long hex key to wind the large threaded bolt into which the knuckle joints were fitted in and out of the cast aluminium cone and had a small hex grub screw in the cone body to 'locate' the adjuster bolt in place once ride height was set. Visually it was quite different from the later models as it was slightly 'lighter' and have four vertical ridges spaced 90 degrees apart (the locating screw was situated in one of these, around half way up it). This was remodelled after a few years, doing away with the locating grub screw - deemed unnecessary since there was no movement of the adjuster bolt once set even without the grub screw - and incorporated a drilled 'drain' hole to allow water collected on top of the cone to drain away instead of corroding the cone and adjuster bolt into uselessness. The advent of the rubber mounted front subframes using the massive tower retaining bolts eventually saw rise of the third incarnation of the Hi-Lo. To aid adjustment without recourse to removing the tower bolts, and indeed having to drill access holes in the rear valance for the long hex key to reach the adjuster in the rear Hi-Los, the new design sported hex-ended adjuster bolts and a locating nut. This now meant ride height could be relatively easily adjusted using a pair of spanners."
"The original design was patented, so the Hi-Lo was the only adjustable spring platform of its type for the Mini for many, many years. Then the patent laws changed. When the original patent ran out, Ripspeed saw no need to renew it on this product. In hindsight, a foolish move as every Tom, Dick and Harry has had a go at producing their own versions. Some good, some appalling. Whatever the actual visual differences, they all incorporate the same adjustable spring platform (cone), using a long distance piece at the rear to connect the knuckle to the cone. Consequently they are all fitted in very much the same manner as the originals."
https://www.calverst.com/technical-info ... rivatives/
Tony Chamings
Bernard Bird (Gomshall Motor Co) – new Mini built (“price tag quoted by sponsor: £10 000”) – spaceframe (“main strength is centred around two steel tubes running from the rear suspension mounting points to an alloy bulkhead mounted directly behind the engine”) – Pete Vickers 8-port 1293 BL engine (130 bhp), but a 170 bhp BDA was expected to replace it. (MN 1-8-74) – to be driven by Tony Chammings (A/S 1-8-74) – for sale (A/S 6-2-75)
http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthr ... ?p=2645542
Mini Magazine - Gomshall Spaceframe Mini pdf
orchardviewgarage.com/resources/Gomshall-Mini-March-11.pdf
(I could only view this pdf file by searching for above on Google and then clicking on Quick View and opening it via Google Docs)
(Tony Chamings died in late 2010).
Last edited by mab01uk on Wed Jun 15, 2022 8:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
Martin has very kindly sent me masses of really good material for the main MK1 site. I will be posting this shortly & will let everyone know when its up.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
I've also got one like that on my Traveller, it has Minifin Birmingham cast inbetween the two half fins at the leading edge.Vegard wrote:I've got a rocker cover like that, missing its cap. Anyone?
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
Thanks for posting.. Apart from needing two access holes positioned in the rear valance to allow the adjuster T Key to be used,the original design Hi/ Low is simple & effective ..i have an original set on my 1071 .. i do not tighten the securing Grub Screw on each adjuster so i can have the Ride Height accurate re-set in a very short time while the Car is sitting on the Tyres.
- mab01uk
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
Following my Mk2 Hi-Lo scans (Cone support diameter increased by 1/2" & chamfered) from earlier in this thread, here is an earlier 1971 flyer for the Mk1 Hi-Lo, note price increase from October!Polarsilver wrote: ↑Mon Apr 20, 2020 9:04 pm Thanks for posting.. Apart from needing two access holes positioned in the rear valance to allow the adjuster T Key to be used,the original design Hi/ Low is simple & effective ..i have an original set on my 1071 .. i do not tighten the securing Grub Screw on each adjuster so i can have the Ride Height accurate re-set in a very short time while the Car is sitting on the Tyres.
(These 1971 Hi-Lo scans thanks to 'JeremyduP' TMF)
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Re: How to stop a Mini doing 100mph!
Thanks for the Mk2 Paperwork ..So it is apparent that i have the Mk2 version Hi/Low as I have two "T Keys" one key is the front short version adjuster key & the other T Key is the rear long version that has a small area on the Hex of the long shaft outer made smooth just in the area that the T Key will pass through the rear Valance, i presume this Long T Key is made in this way so as Body Paint is not scuffed away when the rear T Key is used ..