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Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:24 am
by tomkidd
How do folks,
Returned from holiday and went to the car which drove into the garage to find it wouldn't start... I could smell fuel so thought it was a spark issue. After checking the crank sensor I spotted that the trigger wheel wasn't lined up.
Turns out the bolt has come loose...
I tightened it to the torque setting of 75lbs... should I be using thread lock?
It had started leaking oil again so I am hoping it is leaking due to the pulley coming out of the seal...
Ta
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:01 am
by Chalkie
Did you put the lock tab on? and I always put a little bit of thread lock in keeps it in
and if its nicked the seal its gonna leak unfortally
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 10:16 am
by Smiffy
Had that happen in the past, fixed it by using a shortened (about 6mm) verto flywheel bolt. Allows more thread engagement.
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 11:18 am
by tomkidd
The kit came from MED without a lock tab... Does that end of the crank usually have one?
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 11:57 am
by Chalkie
tomkidd wrote:The kit came from MED without a lock tab... Does that end of the crank usually have one?
All the A seires engines i've stripped always had a lock tab on the crank pully and fly wheel bolt
Lockite or ptfe tap with lock tab and it shouldn't come lose
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:28 am
by mk1
The kit came from MED without a lock tab...
There is not a cat in hells chance of a crank bolt staying in place without a lock tab. The best one to use is the S type steel pulley which has a really efficient lock tab, the Standard 1300 puller have a less efficient one, but it is much better than nothing.
Hope you get it sorted quick sticks.
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:20 am
by tomkidd
mk1 wrote:The kit came from MED without a lock tab...
There is not a cat in hells chance of a crank bolt staying in place without a lock tab. The best one to use is the S type steel pulley which has a really efficient lock tab, the Standard 1300 puller have a less efficient one, but it is much better than nothing.
Hope you get it sorted quick sticks.
This is what I have as its running mapable ignition.
http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/catalo ... management
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:42 am
by guru_1071
tom
why dont you use a c-aht146?
problem sorted.......
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:50 am
by tomkidd
guru_1071 wrote:tom
why dont you use a c-aht146?
problem sorted.......
A who?
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:56 am
by mk1
A C-AHT 146 Competition crank pulley lock plate. It will work fine with that pulley.
M
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:08 am
by tomkidd
Cheers guys, I've just this morning finished putting the engine mounts etc back on... DOH
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:04 pm
by Vegard
I had to shorten my MED bolt as well. However, I haven't used lock washers on either side of the crank for 5 years. It's 2012. Loc tite is what to use. The lock washers are to cheap/soft so they flatten after a while. The result is no tension on the bolt and thusly pulley. Rubbish.
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:22 pm
by guru_1071
Vegard wrote:I had to shorten my MED bolt as well. However, I haven't used lock washers on either side of the crank for 5 years. It's 2012. Loc tite is what to use. The lock washers are to cheap/soft so they flatten after a while. The result is no tension on the bolt and thusly pulley. Rubbish.
the advantage of the c-aht146 is that its impossible for the bolt to turns the four smaller bolts hold the two halves of the pulley together and locate the lock tab onto the centre bolt.
Re: Bloody car - Crank pulley bolt has come lose
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:04 pm
by gr4h4m
Vegard wrote:I had to shorten my MED bolt as well. However, I haven't used lock washers on either side of the crank for 5 years. It's 2012. Loc tite is what to use. The lock washers are to cheap/soft so they flatten after a while. The result is no tension on the bolt and thusly pulley. Rubbish.
I'm Wth V +1