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OK fitted a new pump vertically outlet at the top feed is on the bottom through filter . Sometimes it works and when it does its quiet other times makes hell of a racket but does not pump fuel ..... turned it up the other way no change .... any tips or ideas , have an event this weekend and the random nature it adopts as to if it works or not is concerning

can't help exactly but spookily I've got an issue with the fuelling on the 8 port - again a facet red top through to a filter king regulator, somethings amiss - the float bowl is getting emptied, like the pump can't keep up on anything apart from idle running -similiar problem to yourself???

Have you tried adjusting the Filter king.? It could be restricting the flow of juice.

Hi pump I have is one of the square type with the filter screwed into the inlet , mine either works or doesnt , no in between.

InimiaD wrote:Have you tried adjusting the Filter king.? It could be restricting the flow of juice.

given it a few turns but don't have a fuel pressure gauge (yet ) The only way i can test it is to take it for a spin down the road and see if it conks out again

The square ones are the smaller capacity ones ?, thats what i took out and upgraded.

Cannot claim any particular expertise on pumps but I have found out a lot more over the past week because I have been having problems.
I have discovered that....
1. competition engines require a red, blue or silver top pump. The square one may not be man enough.
2. Use Swiftune needles and seats for bombproof sealing
3. Filter King regiulators and or regulator/filters are OK but not essential
4. Definite question mark over whether the float bowl extensions sold by Swiftune do any good - what do they actually achieve??
5. doesn't really materr if you mount the pump vertically or horizontally as long as you inspect the filter every now and then
6. make sure your tank can breath - a one way valve may be too restrictive!

Having said all this, it's still not running right

I've rung the importers who say they haven't had a problem with the SS501 pump (Solid state one)

We had a grizzle from a local customer with an A35 who said his one was initially noisy but it seems to have settled down

The manufacturers say that the solid state one is good for up to 130bhp, and I've got one on the seven port which raced without problems at Silverstone (which is hardly a slow track) and that's got 129.4 horses and two 45 Webers

My new racer has exactly the same (If it aint broke mentality) and no regulator and ran fine at Silverstone Classic (till the float bowl came loose in the second race

I've got the smaller floats in the chambers and would have thought this would be enough to give a bit of extra "instant" fuel capacity and so it would seem

Having said this, my engine isn't giving the power that the top runners have as it's still on 10.5:1 compression ratio and doesn't have that exotic a head, plus we haven't learnt how to play with the H4's yet

From minor problems & niggles I have had with these pumps in recent times I suspect that sadly, they are NOT as reliable & foolproof as they used to be.

Hmmm.
I ran a solid state pump (back in the 80s) with twin HS6s on a fairly potent semi short stroke motor.
The pump was always noisy starting from cold, ie; when the pressure built up, but quietened down thereafter.
Other than that the pump ran faultlessly.

The JANSPEED Turbo setup for the A series had a Facet listed on the partslist, so I found one at a friends garage, it was brand new, but didnt do anything, when power was applied.

So I bought a different type, as I wouldnt risk the new engine running too lean, and melting down as this happend atleast twice in the 80ies, so maybe the original Facet wasnt up to the job?

Jens Christian

If it's a blow through turbo setup (which the Janspeed is) there is no use for a regular facet pump. You'd need a high pressure injection pump.

Vegard wrote:If it's a blow through turbo setup (which the Janspeed is) there is no use for a regular facet pump. You'd need a high pressure injection pump.

Yes I agree, that was my thought too, thats why I ordered a High pressure injectionpump,
from Raceparts in UK, it delivers a healthy 9 psi, and the JANSPEED spec sheet say 4 psi, so it should be OK.

Jens Christian

JC T ONE wrote:

Vegard wrote:If it's a blow through turbo setup (which the Janspeed is) there is no use for a regular facet pump. You'd need a high pressure injection pump.

Yes I agree, that was my thought too, thats why I ordered a High pressure injectionpump,
from Raceparts in UK, it delivers a healthy 9 psi, and the JANSPEED spec sheet say 4 psi, so it should be OK.

Jens Christian

No, that's not an injection pump. This should deliver at least 50psi. On a blow through turbo the fuel pressure must be 3-4psi MORE than the turbo boost. Hence the need for a boost sensitive fuel pressure valve.

float spacers are there to hold more fuel so you dont get a fuel surge misfire whilst cornering hard mainly a circuit racing problem.

Vegard wrote:
No, that's not an injection pump. This should deliver at least 50psi. On a blow through turbo the fuel pressure must be 3-4psi MORE than the turbo boost. Hence the need for a boost sensitive fuel pressure valve.

Cant remember what it say on the box? maybe it was 7 or 9 BAR ?(bought it 4 years ago)
all I know is that it delivers PLENTY and it is a injectionpump,
same as the one on my old Volvo injection engine + Fiat UNO Turbo, and also the MG Turbo Metro,
it cant run on a single fuel line, as it delivers TOO much fuel, its made to run all the time,
through a fuel pressure regulator(boost sensitive) and through a returnpipe.

Jens Christian

JC T ONE wrote:

Vegard wrote:
No, that's not an injection pump. This should deliver at least 50psi. On a blow through turbo the fuel pressure must be 3-4psi MORE than the turbo boost. Hence the need for a boost sensitive fuel pressure valve.

Cant remember what it say on the box? maybe it was 7 or 9 BAR ?(bought it 4 years ago)
all I know is that it delivers PLENTY and it is a injectionpump,
same as the one on my old Volvo injection engine + Fiat UNO Turbo, and also the MG Turbo Metro,
it cant run on a single fuel line, as it delivers TOO much fuel, its made to run all the time,
through a fuel pressure regulator(boost sensitive) and through a returnpipe.

Jens Christian

Exactly, that makes sense

well we set the fuel pressure on the 8 port tonight, a steady 3.5psi which is LOTS more than it was
Dunno if thats right but its gotta be better

Richspec wrote:well we set the fuel pressure on the 8 port tonight, a steady 3.5psi which is LOTS more than it was
Dunno if thats right but its gotta be better

well aslong as it dont drown itself when idling(if it can idle?) you probably have a "rough" cam in there
my "toy" has a scatter cam, so the "idle" rews, are 1500.
the best thing is to have an onboard meter, to check the air/fuel mixture, up through the rews/gears? so it dont run to lean (or rich?) at top speed.


Jens Christian

the joys of an 8 port - it idles lovely when warm at about 1000 rpm on a 286.
And yep AFR gauge to keep an eye on things

Hi,
I used to run these exact same pumps in my 1380 rally Mini.
Never had any problems with it.
They make a lot of noise the moment you switch them on.
That is because you have a full free flow of fuel to the front.
Once the fuel gets blocked at the carburettor or regulator,
the pace of the ticking slows down and the noise to.
(whitch is perfectly normal)
Possible solutions for your problem ?
1. Make sure you have at least 8 mm thick fuel lines.
2. Blow out the fuel lines. Make sure there free and wide open.
3. Disconnect the fuel line just before the fuel regulator and switch on the pump.
you should have full pressure, connect it again, and try the fuel line 'after'
the regulator.
If you have loss of pressure. That means the regulator is blocked or completely
closed. Screw clockwise for more pressure.
4. If that doesn't help, check the breathing pipe on the fuel tank. The pump might
vaccuum suck the tank, what makes the pressure drop drasticlly.
5. Make sure the pump is connected the right way. There is an 'IN' and 'OUT' mark.
6. Check the fuel line back to front, and look if it's not blocked or bend.
7. If all these things don't work, then there might be a problem with the pump.

Good luck.