Page 1 of 1
Removing bezel from a Smiths tacho without damage
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 10:41 am
by abri
Anyone tried and had success? I don't want to mail my tachometer halfway around the world to get it done by the "gauge shop".
Re: REQUEST - Removing bezel from a Smiths tacho without dam
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:49 pm
by JC T ONE
You dont specify what Smiths tacho ???
If its a std / normal Smiths rim? = then just loosen the 3 "claws" on the bezel,
then rotate it, untill the "claws" meet the slots in the housing, and it can be removed.
Re: REQUEST - Removing bezel from a Smiths tacho without dam
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 4:03 pm
by abri
Sorry about that
It is a Smiths RVI1000/00A. It doesn't seem to have any claws. The bezel looks like it is crimped around the edge and removing it without some serious tools will probably render it bin fodder.
Re: REQUEST - Removing bezel from a Smiths tacho without dam
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:01 pm
by ricardo
Abri, I tried that before with no luck, it got seriously marked... but the bezel was dented anyway.
I've heard this should be done with a proper tool, but I've never seen it. From what I was told, it looks like a split screw driver end and you need to go around the gauge lifting the bezel. I can be wrong, this is just what I was told once.
If you send it to that 'shop' you mention, it will probably return with a new bezel different from the originals. Just look on ebay what they fit on their repaired gauges.
As far as I know there are no modern reproductions of the original Smiths 80mm bezel.
Re: REQUEST - Removing bezel from a Smiths tacho without dam
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:18 pm
by wolseley 1000
had the same problem with my rev counter, bought one of these and for me it looks perfect !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB-MGBGT-MGB ... 20c0d56b25
Re: REQUEST - Removing bezel from a Smiths tacho without dam
Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:08 pm
by 66S
These bezels are the same as many gauge bezels. I slip quite a small screwdriver under the lip and twist it as you lever against the body, advance a little and twist again, then repeat etc. Don't try to open the fold too much, you can go around again, maybe with a bigger screw driver if you need to. You will probably find that only about half the circumference needs to be opened properly because you should be able to slide the bezel off the other half. I would usually open the underside the widest, that way if there is some imperfection when it's back together, it's somewhat hidden.
To close it again, I assemble it and rest the front of the bezel on a flat board and have another board attached so that you can slide the instrument against it to offer support while you tap the opposite side. You can then gently tap the edge back down again. This all sounds a little gruesome but it is not at all difficult. It would be far easier to show you than to describe it but I hope you have some idea.
Regards
Al