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Just went to set the tracking on the 970 only to find the manual says 1/16 in (1.59mm) toe out, well my dunlop gauges read +/- in degrees, anybody know the right value in degrees. Cheers Gray.

We normally run 10 to 15 degrees toe out.

Reading my old workshop manual "each wheel should make an angle of 7' 30" with the longitudinal axis of the car, measurment must be taken on a 14.5" diameter at a distance of 9.4" above ground level". So 0.125 degree toe out if my maths is correct.

Cheers Guy's, how you calculate that I haven't a clue as that all came as double dutch to me but sounds more in the ball park as dunlop tracking gauges only wil give readings between +/- 2 degrees.

Hallo Gray,
Interesting question due to the Dunlop SP that were standard item on these cars in the 60-ties. I suppose NO one use these today. Also, in my mind, many people use Hi-Lows for better ride setting and also better shocks. Perhaps you even have a rear anti roll bar. All in all that means it looks to me a bit far fatched to use 45+ years thinking however right that was duing the period.
With performance tires I recommende a set up like this.
A) Lowest part in front will be exhaust/remote. Set this 120mm or less. Presumably you will have a nice camber as a bonus.
B) Front toe + - 0mm to 1 mm out
C) Rear toe + 3mm out
D) Try to set the rear slightly higher than the front
You will with this setting (with perhaps Youkohamas) have minimum resistance in strait line. Also you will experience a much better turn in.
E) If you are willing to spend another £ 75 buy a pair of Balljoint spacers (www.geralddale.co.ltd)
With these alteration you will have a " new " Mini.
Easiest way to get the wheel angle right is to go to a garage who meassure with lazer so you know that the wheels sits in correct position in each corner. An other way is to invest in a Trackrite tool you just run over and read the result so you really get 50% of the adjustment at each wheel.
Tommy

Dunlop tracking gauges read degrees and minutes. So you need toe out of 10 to 15 minutes (not degrees as I previously stated). First zero the gauges by placing them together and adjusting them until they read zero.
Set your tracking using both track rod end to keep the steering wheel pointing in the right direction. For ten minutes the red line on the gauges should line up with the first mark between 0 and 1 degree for 20 minutes use the second mark, etc.

Thanx for the replies, I don't think I need to go to lengths Lexie maps out so well as my bog standard 970s will not be getting trashed to death although I will have a bit of fun with it. Thanx for the detail KJW I thought that may be the case. I thought I had too much toe out until I got the gauges and had done the zero test and found out I had toe in so will adjust it out a bit. Cheers for all the help.
Those bottom ball joint spacers look interesting.

If you read the instructions you'll find you have to factor in the 'specified width' you've set the two arms too. So if you've set the arms to touch the rims at 10" diameter you turn the calculator arrow to 10 and then read off the angle reading against the measurement on the opposite side of the dial.

Doh!!! never looked at that side of the dial Bob, set in the 10" and then got blind.

Bob,

Is there any chance of scrounging a copy of your instructions for the Dunlop gauges to go on the main MK1 site.

It's amazing now many people have them & don't know how to use them.

Regards,

Mark

mk1 wrote:Bob,

Is there any chance of scrounging a copy of your instructions for the Dunlop gauges to go on the main MK1 site.

It's amazing now many people have them & don't know how to use them.

Regards,

Mark

I found them on t'internet Mark, I've sent you the full document pdf.
The last page covers commercial vehicles which may be of interest to MINI countryman owners

Cheers Bob,

Much appreciated.

M

it might also be worth mentioning that you can still buy a full range of spares for the dunlop trackers.

i got some of the pirates eye suckers and the little scale plates (both of which always seem to be lost or broken!)

they aint cheap, but they make a crap set of trackers good again!

lexie467 wrote:Hallo Gray,
C) Rear toe + 3mm out

I would not advise this ever for a road car, unless you like reversing through hedges at high speed.

I've got the spare parts listing if you want a copy Mark?

wil_h wrote:

lexie467 wrote:Hallo Gray,
C) Rear toe + 3mm out

I would not advise this ever for a road car, unless you like reversing through hedges at high speed.

I guess as you read this form behind the car it would read +3mm toe out from behind the car but -3mm toe in at the front of the rear wheels where you want it

When you use the Dunlop tracking gauges to check the rear toe they will read in reverse, i.e. if they read toe in that means it is toe out and vice versa. The bottom ball joint spacers are fine on a very low race car but not realy necessary on a road car.

I see your point, but it only really works if you are using the dunlop gauges. Plenty of other gauges give you atrue reading.

And even if you set it to 3 deg out with the dunlop gauges, what would you tell people you;d set it to?

I would hate to think someone read this thread and decided that 3 deg out was agood idea.

wil_h is correct, toe out on the rear of a road car is not to be recommended and there is no reason for it. Race cars run toe out on the rear to steer the rear of the car helping turn in.