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MiNiKiN wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 11:45 am If you fancy sorting your suspension, consider the folowing:

Fit the said 1.5°neg. camber arms, with minispares bushes C-STR631
Adjustable tie-rods with uprated bushes C-STR627
You should at least also get yourself some adjustable rear neg. camber brackets to compliment the front neg. camer arms.
Don't forget to fit a 3mm plate below the front lower bump stop. This limits negative suspension travel and prevents your lower knuckle joints binding, caused by the increase in swivel angle from the neg. camber arms.

Settings to go for for road use:
Front:
neg. camber whatever you get from the fixed arms
castor: between 3-5° - the more castor the more return to central force you get
toe: 0 to 1/16 " (1.6mm) toe-out
Rear:
0 - 0.5° neg. camber
1/16" toe-in

Above are values and recommendations from own experience as well as reliable sources. These best work with 165 tyres, but surely not completely off with 145 tyres as well.

Whatever track width you have, make sure you have te correct offset on your rims. These sticking aut deep dished rims make for some very unpleasant driving experience, imho.

gs.davies wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 11:58 am The bushes you've quoted here are the ones I have.
The rims are drum/7 inch Cooper offset, so I think that should work OK.

Are you referring to the little rubber wedge type bump stop that screws on with a single screw? Is there a modified bump stop available? Yes and no! You jsut need to make a little steel plate of 3 mm thickness with a tiny dimply for the locating thingy. If you look at the assembly you probably know what to do.

Do I need to fit the extended length track rod ends? I can only refer to what I read. People say you need them because of the neg. camber arms and also some say they are not good because the joint bolt has a different height, which leads to more bump steer. I hope someone else, an 8-legged forum member for example, can shed more light on this.

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 12:59 pm At the risk of simplifying things as opposed to complicating what is a simple mechanical problem, can I respectfully suggest that step one is to sort out what you've got - by correctly aligning the wheels - exactly as Tim's attachment kindly points out.

Remember K.I.S.S.

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 12:59 pm At the risk of simplifying things as opposed to complicating what is a simple mechanical problem, can I respectfully suggest that step one is to sort out what you've got - by correctly aligning the wheels - exactly as Tim's attachment kindly points out.

Remember K.I.S.S.

Spider wrote: ↑Mon Apr 07, 2025 6:22 pm Particularly at standard or raised ride height, you need to take precautions not to break the lower ball joints. Special Tuning supplied the following information, but, they never spelt out why;-



At full suspension drop with standard suspension arms and the steering straight ahead, the lower ball joint pin almost contacts the outer cup. When putting in any steering angle, the pin does contact the cup. Adding in any negative camber makes this situation worse to the point were even in the straight ahead position, the pin makes hard contact and will lead to breaking of the Pin.

This situation exists regardless of ride height, but becomes worse at standard or raised height as when the suspension goes in to full droop, it will do so with some considerable force, even as much as jacking the car up with wheels in the air will do this.

Fitting the 1/8" plates as ST recommend prevent (and limit) the full drop position and so reduce this issue occurring. Going beyond adding -2degrees - that is adding -2, not setting to -2 - may warrant thicker plates.