mk1-forum.net

Per the title, attached is an article I've written describing how I fitted an M-Machine full floor panel.

I've uploaded it as three separate files as the limit is 512kb per file. If we can get around this, I'd be happy to upload a single file (currently 998kb)

I hope it will be of use to someone.

Please forward any comments to me, especially any extra advice you can add or details of any errors or ommissions

Cobolman

This is great stuff.

When I get a moment I’ll add it into the technical pages.

Thanks for this superb contribution.

Amazing detail.
I've just completed this job on HDK443E so pretty much the same task, however it was a Mini Spares supplied part in grey primer, labelled M-Machine.

Everything lined up almost perfectly as the panel supplied is excellent.
Front toeboard junction needed modification to angles, as suggested and the tabs along bottom of the inner wings needed 10mm more space so bent them up to allow flexibility back and forth.

Few things to add the the previous excellent post, from my experiences:

• Remove all masking and packaging tape from the panel if you intend to temporarily store it as it can be a pain to remove if its old and damp.
  • Clean off any paint that will interfere with spot welds later when fitting ....dont ask!!, theres lots of places...more than you might imagine at first glance, weld through paint over cleaned areas will help but doesn't always work and double spot welding may be the only answer.
  • Get assistance to lift the front over the toe board location and clamp temporarily with mole grips or 'G' clamps, then lift the back up and clamp along the sill, again temporarily.
  • Use axle stands or similar under the floor to allow movement back and forth when finalising the location.
  • Diagonal measurements were very necessary within the located position as the floor pan supplied appeared to be perfect, I used the remaining parts of the body measured to the floorpan as my guide.
  Not as bad a job as you might imagine and way better then cutting out numerous rusty patches and replacing. Oh the grinding
  I had no choice in this task as the floor on this car was almost non existant, having been in the same chicken shed as KDK 320F but sadly not on wheels so resting in chicken mess took its toll over the many many years that it was languishing there.
  T

Just checked the cross member alignment and mine is also not ot square to the floor, it must be a jigging error.
Not a big deal but could be annoying.
T

trevorhp wrote: ↑Fri Jan 24, 2025 12:24 pm I've just completed this job on HDK443E so pretty much the same task, however it was a Mini Spares supplied part in grey primer, labelled M-Machine.

Interesting that yours came in paint and mine didn't.

trevorhp wrote: ↑Fri Jan 24, 2025 12:24 pm Front toeboard junction needed modification to angles, as suggested and the tabs along bottom of the inner wings needed 10mm more space so bent them up to allow flexibility back and forth.

Good to know that it wasn't just mine

trevorhp wrote: ↑Fri Jan 24, 2025 12:24 pm Few things to add the the previous excellent post, from my experiences:

Great additional tips! I assume you didn't use a rotisserie?

trevorhp wrote: ↑Fri Jan 24, 2025 12:24 pm Not as bad a job as you might imagine and way better then cutting out numerous rusty patches and replacing. Oh the grinding

Agreed!

"Great additional tips! I assume you didn't use a rotisserie?"

I couldn't as I had no steps no A posts and no boot floor, so didn't trust my internal bracing until the floor etc was in place"

I'll put it on the Rotisserie once the floor is fully welded in place, it will make the additional welding easier.
T