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Well I started it up yesterday and it spluttered a bit like there was not enough fuel getting though. Anyway drove it down the road when it would occasionally splutter then it just continued to do it got worse where it stalled. I then fitted a new inline fuel filter and used my 12v on demand pump to draw the fuel though they system into the carb bowl (seamed to be plenty of petrol). Started straight away but continued to splutter then stalled

Though it could be the fuel pump so I piped up my 12v on demand pump between the online filer and the carb bowl, bled it and lots of petrol came out! Started up easy again and spluttered and stalled then would not start again

So dose it sound like a carb issue to you? Anyway I have attached a few photos of the carb and fuel pump
Thanks

You haven't given us much to go on. When was the car previously driven? What spec is the car? How old is the fuel? Have you looked at the spark plugs and contacts - or does it have electronic ignition? The list is almost endless.

Thats a very shiny top to the carb, has it been taken off and polished ?

Does the coil get hot? Are you still getting a healthy spark when it won't start?

Old English White wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 8:34 am You haven't given us much to go on. When was the car previously driven? What spec is the car? How old is the fuel? Have you looked at the spark plugs and contacts - or does it have electronic ignition? The list is almost endless.

The car was driven the other day and fuel put in the other day too!
I changed the spark plugs not so long ago
Not sure what electronic ignition is though

Exminiman wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 8:54 am Thats a very shiny top to the carb, has it been taken off and polished ?

Could of been, but not had the car long enough for it to crode, so dont know about last owners

AndyPen wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 9:45 am Does the coil get hot? Are you still getting a healthy spark when it won't start?

I dont know what the coil is, I have not checked the spark though

Crack Pot wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 12:35 pm

Exminiman wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 8:54 am Thats a very shiny top to the carb, has it been taken off and polished ?

Could of been, but not had the car long enough for it to crode, so dont know about last owners

Put a finger into back of carb, under piston and try and lift the piston to make sure its not jammed in place.

You should be able to lift the piston and then let go and it fall smoothly back down.

Also, unscrew the black plastic piston in top of carb and check that there is oil inside, if not top up with some lightish oil.

Exminiman wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 2:12 pm
Put a finger into back of carb, under piston and try and lift the piston to make sure its not jammed in place.

You should be able to lift the piston and then let go and it fall smoothly back down.

I dont know where you mean!

Exminiman wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 2:12 pm Also, unscrew the black plastic piston in top of carb and check that there is oil inside, if not top up with some lightish oil.

Again; same as above

The elbow that is left from where you’ve removed the air box. Put your finger into there and you should feel the piston inside the carb.


From your other posts, I’d recommend buying a Haynes manual, it will help you familiarise yourself with the basics and diagnostics.

mini_surfari wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 3:33 pm The elbow that is left from where you’ve removed the air box. Put your finger into there and you should feel the piston inside the carb.

By elbow are you refering to the pipe connecter that the fuel pipe from the filter goes into?

mini_surfari wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 3:33 pm From your other posts, I’d recommend buying a Haynes manual, it will help you familiarise yourself with the basics and diagnostics.

I do have a manual, but I let it in the car and the car is 2 miles away and its hammering down with rain right now

Was one of these you are refering to?

In your marked-up photo:-

Blue circle = "The elbow that is left from where you’ve removed the air filter box. Put your finger into there and you should feel the piston inside the carb. Put a finger into back of carb, under piston and try and lift the piston to make sure its not jammed in place.
You should be able to lift the piston and then let go and it fall smoothly back down."
(Or you may have a lifting pin as shown in diagram below to lift the piston with your finger and hopefully hear it drop back down.)

Red circle= "unscrew the black plastic cap in top of the SU carb and pull up and out the attached piston and then look in carb to check that there is some oil inside sitting in the bottom of the vertical tube, if not top up with some lightish oil (like 3 in 1) but not to the very top! Then push the piston back in slowly into the oil/tube and finally screw back down the black plastic cap."

Yellow circle = This is the petrol Float chamber on the side of the carb which might be the next easy check to do after above depending. If you remove the 3-screws holding the lid on (being careful not to drop them!) you can then carefully lift the lid away along with the plastic float attached which opens and shuts an inlet valve in the lid (more on checking that later) and you can also look in and check the bottom of the petrol float chamber is not full of crud/debris/sludge which can collect over time without an inline fuel filter, especially if a car has not been in regular use recently. Do this check with the engine cold for safety as a hot exhaust manifold and petrol dripping + vapour is not a good combination!

Check and adjust the Valve Clearances........

mab01uk wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 5:23 pm Blue circle = "The elbow that is left from where you’ve removed the air filter box. Put your finger into there and you should feel the piston inside the carb. Put a finger into back of carb, under piston and try and lift the piston to make sure its not jammed in place.
You should be able to lift the piston and then let go and it fall smoothly back down."
(Or you may have a lifting pin as shown in diagram below to lift the piston with your finger and hopefully hear it drop back down.)

The piston goes all the way up and comes back down slowly

mab01uk wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 5:23 pm Red circle= "unscrew the black plastic cap in top of the SU carb and pull up and out the attached piston and then look in carb to check that there is some oil inside sitting in the bottom of the vertical tube, if not top up with some lightish oil (like 3 in 1) but not to the very top! Then push the piston back in slowly into the oil/tube and finally screw back down the black plastic cap."

There was oil in the resevar but it was not to the level so I have addred WD40

mab01uk wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 5:23 pm Yellow circle = This is the petrol Float chamber on the side of the carb which might be the next easy check to do after above depending. If you remove the 3-screws holding the lid on (being careful not to drop them!) you can then carefully lift the lid away along with the plastic float attached which opens and shuts an inlet valve in the lid (more on checking that later) and you can also look in and check the bottom of the petrol float chamber is not full of crud/debris/sludge which can collect over time without an inline fuel filter, especially if a car has not been in regular use recently. Do this check with the engine cold for safety as a hot exhaust manifold and petrol dripping + vapour is not a good combination!

There was a bit of dirt in the bottom of the resevar (but no gunk) I have sloshed it about with a screwdriver and the petrol went all cloudy and brown. Should I clean it out with a rag and refill it?

Old English White wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 8:34 am You haven't given us much to go on. When was the car previously driven? What spec is the car? How old is the fuel? Have you looked at the spark plugs and contacts - or does it have electronic ignition? The list is almost endless.

Hear are 2 photos of the ignition.
It says on it "unipart, GCL110, 12V ignition coil

Smiffy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 7:28 pm Check and adjust the Valve Clearances........

???

What are you questioning crackpot ? Do you not know how to check and adjust your valve clearances ?

Crack Pot wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 7:32 pm There was a bit of dirt in the bottom of the resevar (but no gunk) I have sloshed it about with a screwdriver and the petrol went all cloudy and brown. Should I clean it out with a rag and refill it?

Yes, clean the dirty brown petrol out with a rag, etc and any dirt residue visible in the bottom of the float chamber as that could block the jet in the carb. The inline filter you fitted earlier should stop any dirt from the petrol tank reaching the carb in future. The petrol pump should refill the chamber with petrol when you next try to start the engine and the plastic float and its fuel inlet valve should open and shut as petrol is needed by the engine when running. Just check there are no fuel leaks around the float chamber lid and gasket which also indicates the float valve is shutting off correctly.
For reference: The float valve (see link below) has a tapered tip to shut off the fuel, which can wear over time causing the float chamber to flood with too much fuel being delivered.

FLOAT NEEDLE VALVE HS2/4/6 (VITON TIPPED) :-
https://www.minispares.com/wzx1100a-flo ... ton-tipped

Smiffy wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2024 7:50 pm What are you questioning crackpot ? Do you not know how to check and adjust your valve clearances ?

No I dont know how to check and adjust the clearance