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Hi all, just making sure I've left enough room for the radiator here (and space to remove the brake pipe should I need to at some point), but don't have a rad to hand to fix and check at the moment - so before I go and make another pipe, and just by eye, does this look OK or should I play safe and lower it?

I did it this high as I've found it helps spanner access from the side hole in the inner wing.

Cheers folks.

Could be close Andy, although, the bottom of the rad does tuck up just where the pipe makes the bend.
Adding a picture of my original 65 S....just lifted the engine out a few weeks ago. Pipe looks like it's the original one.
Hope this helps.

Andy , i make the Brake Pipe Bend just above the Hex Fitting so it does not have much room to slide "up" the pipe when its loose .. i make that pipe bend quite tight .. purpose to clear the Rad but also to allow some access to get to the two Rad Bracket securing Bolts that are a sod to get access to.. would be good to have an OE pipe photo to explain what BMC did?

Thanks both, I guess I was trying to avoid making another pipe, but knew deep down I should eh?

Rad brackets had not come into equation, so a very good point there too.

You could probably cut the flair off that one and shorten it and then give the bend a tweak rather than start again.

I think the pipe should also run along the underside of that lip if I remember correctly?

mini_surfari wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2024 7:37 am You could probably cut the flair off that one and shorten it and then give the bend a tweak rather than start again.

I think the pipe should also run along the underside of that lip if I remember correctly?

You are right it does drop down, hence the gaps at the corner, and then held by two clips. I wonder why it goes under?

I'll give that a go but it will need pulling down, as I deliberately didn't shape it like Dermot's original to keep the pipe lower and out of the way more. I have an original here that matches Dermot's shape, but thought I was being clever - he he..

Will the pipe have enough straight left to clamp on I wonder? Whatever, it will fun trying

I have also been looking at getting a spanner in the for the lower nut and have a strong drop down ring spanner I bought off ebay and it will fit perfectly once I've made a cut to let it pass over the pipe.

It goes under the lip to stop the gearbox damaging it during an engine change .

Rubber Sprung wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2024 9:02 am It goes under the lip to stop the gearbox damaging it during an engine change .

Ahhhh, yes, we live and learn, thanks for that

Why not just bolt the engine mount to the frame and stick the rad bracket on then you can see for yourself...................

Smiffy wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2024 4:22 pm Why not just bolt the engine mount to the frame and stick the rad bracket on then you can see for yourself...................

The rad and all those bits aren't here at the moment Smiffy, annoyingly I can't get them for a week or two as there is an access problem in a place I store stuff.

You only said you didn't have the rad to hand.......

360gts wrote: ↑Fri Nov 29, 2024 9:45 pm Could be close Andy, although, the bottom of the rad does tuck up just where the pipe makes the bend.
Adding a picture of my original 65 S....just lifted the engine out a few weeks ago. Pipe looks like it's the original one.
Hope this helps.

Just a quick follow up and to confirm that this is the standard shape. I have been doing some experiments and as mentioned by Polar the lower the better seems to be the solution. The one at the top is standard and the one at the bottom the version I'll use The rusty pic is from my unmolested 64.