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I’m in the process of building up my hubs. Have bought the Japanese Delta ball joints . Have 30 mm droppers on the lower pivot. Am I right in thinking that it’s better to use traditional ball joints on the lower pivot as they have more movement angle wise. I’ve read somewhere that the delta ones don’t have as much movement and are therefore more prone to breaking? Or have I read it wrong?
Hopefully someone can give me some first hand advice.
Thinks

Have you read the articles by mechanical maestro Spider of this parish, among others who have commented on their experiences with these all singing and dancing no-need-to-adjust ball joints. Can I respectfully suggest that you look before you leap Ian.

Are you there Spider Chris deep in Ozland..........

Thanks for the advice Peter….I’m 7 years into this build….I’m not leaping anywhere. All best Ian

Cheers Pete.

Ian, all the maintenance free joints are no good. None have enough swivel angle, some have 40 degrees some a little more. The original Mini Ball Joint has 50 degrees and needs every degree of that. Adding ball joint spacers makes this situation worse. If you do want to add these spacers, I'd suggest using a stock joint and putting a spacer under the rebound stop. I'd further suggest fitting the hubs up to the subframe, leaving the ball joint rubbers off, to check them without the rubber cone or hydro bag, so you can check at the extremes of the suspension movements. Fit your brake calipers on too. Withe the ball joint rubbers off, you'll be able to see if the Pin is contacting the Cup of the Ball Joint. If you are adding in negative camber, while difficult to judge on an un-built car, you'll want to allow something here as on a stock car, adding negative camber does drive the lower ball joint to binding, this is why we see a few broken lower ball joints and why Special Tuning recommend fitting a 3 mm spacer to the rebound stop.