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Need to re-do floor in workshop as paint has warn off and getting a bit dusty.

Few years ago, in another part I used self levelling compound and decent floor paint and very happy with the result, just takes up a whole weekend…at least.

Sooo, was think of putting down garage floor tiles, which turn it into a day job, assuming I can persuade someone to help move all the stuff in and out.

Apart from cost, are there any other downsides ?

Ive always had carpet in mine. Nice to walk, kneel and lay down on, easy to clean (hoover). Things don't bounce so much as a hard surface. Downsides, if you've got an oily mini might be a mess but not been an issue.

30 years ago I sealed my new concrete 'rippled' large garage floor with a sealant and a month later roller painted one side in a Johnstones Princess grey floor paint. Painted in the next warm morning and it was dry by 4pm. Did the other side the next weekend. Garage has been flogged to death ever since with all manner of stuff from oil to swarf from the machines to 'stuff' being dropped on it to building work while I dug my pit about 6 months ago.

It's been repainted all over twice since the 90's, one half at a time, the last time a few months ago after I'd finished my deep pit. Just slap it on and roll it around - then bin the roller bit. Or if you're going to do the other half next day or next weekend, put the roller in an airtight bag to keep it fresh

Easy to sweep and keep clean and I use a duck-board at the side door and at the machines. It's been as tough as old boots, perhaps even a bit tougher than a 998 Cooper engine and still looks bluddy good. Better still, when you get little chips or wear spots it's easy to spot-paint. I don't even use a brush to spot paint. Just slosh it on with a bit of wood. It don't win prizes of course but it does for longevity and ease of maintenance

Come and have a look when you're passing Miniman!

As a builder I have painted garage floors with cheap floor.paint with doesn't last so always recommend a epoxy floor paint which lasts 10 times longer don't know ti much about tiles I believe trolly Jack's and such can mark them but sure you could overcome the problem with piece of ply
And would say uneven floors would benefit from a self leveling compound you can feather the edges so no need to do all floor unless necessary
Hope this helps Alan

I get that Classic. My housebuilder said to me at the time of build that I should let the concrete (block and beam build) garage floor settle and cure for 3 months before I did anything to it. Been fine ever since with just good quality paint...... Or it SEEMS to be good quality so far!

Good advice Peter floor screed dries on average 1mm per day if not completely dry moisture coming out will lift paint or any.non breathable self leveling floor compounds epoxy or 2pack paint has weathered well in high traffic areas i.e mot style workshops but quite right not essential

Never used garage floor tiles. They look tempting (warm, soft underfoot, reduced chance of foot injury when you drop a lump hammer). But I can understand worries about possible problems - sharp lathe swarf getting ground-in, getting grimy with oil spills, or movement of the floor as the car is repeatedly moved over them. Are they fireproof (for when welding, or applying blowlamp to stubborn fasteners)?

I used to use Johnstones concrete floor paint, but found it only lasts a couple of years before the top layer of concrete starts to flake off - resulting in a scruffy look and dust in the air. Easy to repaint, of course, but still a pain. Probably it's intended for power-floated floors, which don't flake the same as tamped or roller-struck floors, like mine.

On my newest shed I used KoverTek "G40 MultiSeal". It appears to be basically the same stuff as Bonda "G4 Clear Pond Sealer" but came in a 25 litre drum for half the price of the Bonda product. On concrete floors both products soak in and bind deeply. Downside is they really pong, but they dry very quickly and the smell is gone in under a day. Simply pour dollops onto the floor and spread a generously thick layer using a 9" roller (hairy type - not foam type) on a long handle. Roller-away any puddles that don't soak in. Bin the roller after use - impossible to clean. My G40'd floor is a few years old now and doesn't show any sign of the bond failing yet.

G40 / G4 has the advantage that, after an oil spill, I just mop up the worst and then slop some more G4[0] on top and stipple it / mix it into the last smears of oil to restore a safe oil-free surface.

G4[0] only works on bare unsealed concrete - no good over existing paint, and probably won't soak into a power-floated floor, either. A concrete floor grinder will get rid of paint (and the top half-inch of concrete) amazingly rapidly - I briefly ground my floor to knock the sharp tops off the aggregate before sealing it. But of course as any tin of anything will tell you: "Try on a small unobtrusive area before applying to the whole floor."

i use ex Lounge Carpet .. Garage Floor is condensation proof during the Winter + good to absorb the tyre tread when car is left standing.. will absorb any light oil drip & her indoors is happy as she gets the next new carpet somehow just when i need the next Garage Carpet .. But back to the original question.. Marc ( i think ) asks are those choose your colour plastic type of garage floor type matt / tiles worth the effort .. do they move in that does a gap appear between the tile when a car is steering manovering + will they take a Trolly Jack loading & do those holes in the Plastic Tile just fill up with dirt & crud?

I've fitted floor tiles from Screwfix, the cheap ones..

Easy enough to fit new Stanley blade to trim.

Positives
They feel warm when I'm nearing down most probably helps to keep garage a a constant temperature.

The negative is that they don't stay looking new for long,they have not warn just lost a bit of lustre.
I most probably need to retrim again as they have lifted slightly at the back door into the garage.
Water needs mopping up as it stays on top, I've used off cuts for the oil drip

100BUR wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2024 1:56 pm I've fitted floor tiles from Screwfix, the cheap ones..

Easy enough to fit new Stanley blade to trim.

Positives
They feel warm when I'm nearing down most probably helps to keep garage a a constant temperature.

The negative is that they don't stay looking new for long,they have not warn just lost a bit of lustre.
I most probably need to retrim again as they have lifted slightly at the back door into the garage.
Water needs mopping up as it stays on top, I've used off cuts for the oil drip

Do you have any issues with the tiles compressing, when jacking things up ?

Polarsilver wrote: ↑Mon Aug 05, 2024 11:37 pm i use ex Lounge Carpet .. Garage Floor is condensation proof during the Winter + good to absorb the tyre tread when car is left standing.. will absorb any light oil drip & her indoors is happy as she gets the next new carpet somehow just when i need the next Garage Carpet .. But back to the original question.. Marc ( i think ) asks are those choose your colour plastic type of garage floor type matt / tiles worth the effort .. do they move in that does a gap appear between the tile when a car is steering manovering + will they take a Trolly Jack loading & do those holes in the Plastic Tile just fill up with dirt & crud?

Yes a nice shag pile (oooh er Mrs) could do it ...
I wondered about loading up the tiles and if they move around as well

Thing is, self levelling compound (just the Screw Fix stuff) and floor paint gives a nice flat smooth surface for setting things up - I wonder if that is less so of tiles ?

I think if I was going to use garage for more workshop based use I would use paint but tiles if it.was storage and maintenance

Hi, I have always used the Duramat Rubber tiles .

Tough as old boots and always clean up a treat.

They are a useful barrier against a cold concrete floor.

I wouldn't jack the car up on them,think they would leave an indent.
I've got four scraper rubber floor mats we're the wheels sit.

I fitted the rubber interlocking floor tiles to the workshops where i work. Looked good.
In the machine shop the lathe coolant would seep through the interlocking joins then spread out under the tiles for a few meters in all directions. Floor sealant helped stop it. The yellow tiles used to mark out the walkways are a bitch to clean.

Jerry