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The figure always says and onto the next castellation

Does that mean if you’re torqued up and happen to be inline with the castellation/slot you put the pin in, or do you still go to the next castellation?

I’ve always left it if it lines up..

If its at the torque setting , then leave it and put the spring pin in. One tip that Peter Baldwin gave me was to grease up the tapered washer and the face of the nut. NEVER use an impact gun, it will weaken the base of the splines (especially on the cheap Chinese crap). Greasing it up will allow you to "overtighten" the nut to next slot

As Rolandino ha suggested, it's the minimum torque setting. If it lines up, at that torque, then happy days.

Rolandino wrote: ↑Wed May 29, 2024 5:16 pm One tip that Peter Baldwin gave me was to grease up the tapered washer and the face of the nut. NEVER use an impact gun, it will weaken the base of the splines (especially on the cheap Chinese crap). Greasing it up will allow you to "overtighten" the nut to next slot

I use a light oil here, on the taper, the thread and the face of the nut. With the disc set ups, the tighter the nut can be set, the better for the wheel bearing assy and the flange.

Cheers. I have to admit I’ve ditched the taper spring washer on them and fit a solid taper washer from KAD. I had a few of the modern ones fractured plus issues with break feel on track

As a little off-shoot to this thread I am in absolute and total agreement with Mini-Geek (above) regarding the split taper collar. A/the - tapered collar in the S CV is SUPPOSED to be a means of mechanically centring everything behind it. That'd be true if it were a true tapered collar. But it ain't!. It is a split collar which in effect means that instead of the hub etc etc centring on the CV via the collar, the split collar widens to suit the hub.

Not that it will make any appreciable or noticeable difference and someone with greater brain power than me (not difficult.....) has designed it into the hub system. But the reasoning behind it escapes me..... Maybe it was to allow excess grease from the hub splines to leech out? That said, I've never seen a split taper collar used on any other application that I've been involved in. They're not hard material either as you'll see from the graunch marks where the nut has scoured it.

So, like Mini-Geek, when I was restoring mine and later rebuilding it, I simply turned up a couple of SOLID taper collars from medium carbon steel. And they're still there, living happily ever after as they say!

And as soon as I give my RCSport a suspension tidy-up this winter, I'll do the same.

This came up in error for some reason........