mk1-forum.net

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2024 1:18 pm**

Could anyone recommend the correct punch (and where to get one) that is used to fit the domed rivets for the engine plate ID tags?

Thanks in advance!

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2024 7:58 pm**

The rivets are fairly hard, I've only ever knocked them in using a soft dolly for the punch - brass or copper.

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2024 3:15 am**

Echo Spider's comment. No special punch is required. Here in the states the rivets are called "drive rivets". Just some light taps with a hammer is all that is needed.

Chris Miller

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2024 10:12 am**

Great, thank you. I didn't want to damage/mark the top of the dome and then cause problems!

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2024 10:33 am**

Echo all of the above...... plus a bit......
If you can, position the hard drive rivet so that the teeth align with the corresponding teeth positions in the block. Will make driving it in easier

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2024 12:37 pm**

jamiestevens94 wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2024 10:12 am Great, thank you. I didn't want to damage/mark the top of the dome and then cause problems!

To be honest, they take a MASSIVE amount of abuse in their extraction so will probably be pretty much unscathed by a fair clump with a hammer going back in.

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2024 12:51 pm**

I ground a saw cut across mine with a dremil grinder then used an impact driver with just sufficient blow to turn it upwards a bit - daft as it sounds! Let WD40 run down and next day 'unwound' drive rivet with a pair of pliers. Bit of a faff but the only way I could keep the original engine number plate intact after some work.

A waste of time I found out later as the chief engineer at the then MG factory gave me a load of new rivets and had a new number plate reverse stamped for me!

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2024 10:57 pm**

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2024 12:51 pm I ground a saw cut across mine with a dremil grinder then used an impact driver with just sufficient blow to turn it upwards a bit - daft as it sounds! Let WD40 run down and next day 'unwound' drive rivet with a pair of pliers. Bit of a faff but the only way I could keep the original engine number plate intact after some work.

A waste of time I found out later as the chief engineer at the then MG factory gave me a load of new rivets and had a new number plate reverse stamped for me!

Peter, Did you just cut a across the remainder on the rivet stem or did you have to cut into the block too? One of my "captive" stems is about 0.5 to 1mm below the level of the block! I'm thinking even if I cut into the block slightly it'll be hidden under the engine number plate. TIA, G.

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2024 11:13 pm**

I would NOT cut into the Block.. whenever i have similar its time to cheat and drive the broken bit of the Rivet "further down in its hole "..it will go inwards a bit more & leave a short clear few mm deep of a hole..enough to hold a new Clout Rivet that has its length reduced /cut off leaving just the enough of a stub to locate in the hole along with a dap of Glue & that will fix the engine tab .. and only you will know the truth of the bodge.

Posted: **Wed May 15, 2024 1:40 am**

Chapmag wrote: ↑Tue May 14, 2024 10:57 pm One of my "captive" stems is about 0.5 to 1mm below the level of the block! I'm thinking even if I cut into the block slightly it'll be hidden under the engine number plate. TIA, G.

I use a 3 mm Carbide End Mill on them when they break. You'll want to do the job in a Mill or a 1/2 decent drill press will suffice, spin it us fast and take small bites - peck at it. Don't even think about using a hand drill, you'll be in tears. It'll make mince meat of the broken rivet no sweat.

Posted: **Wed May 15, 2024 11:32 am**

Just to clarify my take and Chapmags response. No. I cut a slot across the domed rivet HEAD. Just deep enough to get an impact driver bit into.

Never had to remove a broken off rivet. But I now know what to do if I need to thanks to Spider Chris

Posted: **Wed May 15, 2024 8:20 pm**

Thanks all three for the input. As I don't readily have access to a mill or drill press I try and drive the rivet stem further in. At least that way I can still revert to the mill/drill press method later if it doesn't work!! Thanks again, G.

Posted: **Thu May 16, 2024 5:58 pm**

Additionally
When trying to driving in the rivet stem get the engine up to normal temperature! this will help.............

Posted: **Fri May 17, 2024 3:32 pm**

Thanks to everyone for their input. Seems the old ones broke off probably when the previous owner "rebuilt" the engine so had to drill some of the existing material out. Few hits with the hammer and the engine plate and rivets are in position!

Posted: **Fri May 17, 2024 11:11 pm**

i need to get the old drive screws out, get a new plate made & fit it once the engine is built so good advice

Posted: **Sat Jul 27, 2024 9:40 pm**

I ended up getting a mate to spark erode the old rivet, he tried drilling it out on a mill but complained the rivet was too hard

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Engine ID plate rivet punch

Engine ID plate rivet punch

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