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Parallel to the challenges of the interior, there are of course also "normal" restoration activities. Since both doors were missing on the Radford, I didn't have any hinges. I managed to find a used set, but this had to be overhauled first.
I started by stripping the paint and rust. The hinge pins were of course worn out.


Don't be fooled here. Even hinges that appear to have no play in the hand but feel rather smooth-running usually have play when installed. They should therefore be rather stiff without this being caused by rust. Once the hinges have been painted and fitted, it is particularly annoying if you only then notice play in the hinge.
So I knocked out the hinge bolts and pressed out the bush with a suitable bolt. With a slightly smaller bolt, that fits exactly into the bushing, the new bushing can be pulled in.

Now you can drive the new hinge pin back into the assembled hinge. It is important to be sure which side of the hinge will be on top later, so that the toothed or knurled and chamfered end of the pin is not in the visible area later.


With old hinges, however, it can happen that the holes in the short hinge part are worn out. The hinge pin then rotates in the hinge piece instead in its bushing. This was also the case with my hinges. The unwanted movement can be avoided with a small spot weld that goes from the hinge part to the pin. This should usually be done by the knurling, but if the hole is already too big, you have to take tougher measures. The welding spot can also be filed smooth afterwards so that nothing is visible after painting.

I have recently done a technical article about these hinge pins and restoring them Doc. You will have realised that the axis pins and studs/bolts are exactly 90 degrees to each other, but............. The underside, door facing surfaces on the TOP sets are inclined at 107 fdegrees. Making holding them difficult to hold if you have to drill out broken studs or bore oversize axis pin bushes.