I´ve been driving my mini for a month now since it has a slave cylinder change for the clutch. The main issue is with reverse, when I start the car the reverse is fine but after a while of driving it gets hard to put reverse so I have to switch off the car and the put reverse with the engine turned off, those it point to a likley solution?
thanx
Clutch
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- 850 Super
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Re: Clutch
If it`s only done that since the slave cylinder replacement there is probably some air in the system that needs bleeding out. Also check your clutch throw out stop has the correct clearance.
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- 998 Cooper
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- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Clutch
While you're down there - if you'll excuse the phrase - you might want to add a slight modification to the slave cylinder to make bleeding the damn thing a whole lot easier. Shown elsewhere on the forum (anyone.....) and simple to make
If it was me in your shoes now, I'd also be replacing the push rod, push rod axis pin and also the lower lever axis pin. All these points are a MAJOR source of wear that added up, amount to a large accumulative error in the clutch system. If you were really clever you could bore out and bush the same axis pin holes in the lever too
If it was me in your shoes now, I'd also be replacing the push rod, push rod axis pin and also the lower lever axis pin. All these points are a MAJOR source of wear that added up, amount to a large accumulative error in the clutch system. If you were really clever you could bore out and bush the same axis pin holes in the lever too
- Spider
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Re: Clutch
Where does your clutch start to bite ? is it with the pedal close to the floor or further up ?
This the one Pete ?
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=33519
For what ever it's worth, I'd also suggest replacing the parts Peter has mentioned in post ^ .
I'd also suggest when bleeding the system, making sure the Piston in the slave is seated right in the bottom of the cylinder, even if that involves temporarily putting a nut or something else on the end of the pushrod to achieve this, but be sure to take it out after bleeding.
I found that as the cylinder is fairly level on the engine and with the inlet hose being right under the bleed nipple, if the piston isn't seated right down the bottom of the bore, it's possible for quite a bit of air to be left inside the cylinder.
This the one Pete ?
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=33519
For what ever it's worth, I'd also suggest replacing the parts Peter has mentioned in post ^ .
I'd also suggest when bleeding the system, making sure the Piston in the slave is seated right in the bottom of the cylinder, even if that involves temporarily putting a nut or something else on the end of the pushrod to achieve this, but be sure to take it out after bleeding.
I found that as the cylinder is fairly level on the engine and with the inlet hose being right under the bleed nipple, if the piston isn't seated right down the bottom of the bore, it's possible for quite a bit of air to be left inside the cylinder.
- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Clutch
The one I was thinking about Chris was the bleed nipple being extended towards the front of the engine. Nothing in the way and so simple.
Can anyone put it up.......?
Can anyone put it up.......?
- Peter Laidler
- 1275 Cooper S
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Re: Clutch
That's the one Chris, designed by our very own Dearg. The best and most worthwhile addition I ever made to my Cooper S
I don't know why David isn't making these little remote bleed adaptors and selling them
Thanks
I don't know why David isn't making these little remote bleed adaptors and selling them
Thanks