Paint vs Underseal

[Oneball]

I’ve got a pretty original, off topic car, from the 60s, it’s really solid but lacks any protection from the elements underneath. It’s just going to be used as a normal car in the summer so want a bit of advice on how to protect it. What’s the forums thought? Paint? Underseal? Both? Theres also some “systems” I see from the likes of Rust and Por15?

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[richardACS]

You might consider Lanoguard. Its a waxy by product from sheep and provides a good barrier

[Oneball]

You might consider Lanoguard. Its a waxy by product from sheep and provides a good barrier

Are there any advantages over underseals like Dintrol?

[richardACS]

I cannot answer that I haven't used dinitrol.

What I like about Lanoguard is that unlike POR 15 or regular underseal, it isn't a semi permanent application. It is quick, simple (non paint or tar) to apply by either spray or brush and depending on car usage i.e. daily driver or a classic car will provide good protection.

I've tended to pressure wash the underside to remove thick mud build up, allow it to dry off (warm spring day - ideal) then spray on followed by a brush to move the material to the blind side of the spray.

[Peter Laidler]

Prior to Gulf war 1, the MoD did some trials on about 6 or so oily/waxy treatments that would protect vehicles going down there as deck cargo. I presume that the Bay of Biscay was as good a test as anything......... The top stuff came out as Supertrol-001. I got and used a few litres to totally smother my then brand new Rover Cooper Sport...... You know the one......., made with special water soluble steel as used by Rover.

Joking apart. It's still like new and the deck cargo vehicles all made it there - and in most cases - back again! The mixture has changed slightly now but once it's on, it sticks like shit to a blanket and never dries. Easy to spray into every nook and cranny and vapourises as it does

As good as it is, it'll never be tough enough to save a Marina or an Ital

[Oneball]

Do you think I should paint it prior to whatever treatment?

[Polarsilver]

I use Bilt Hamber their product called Dynax -UC clear film anti- corrosion wax on "anything" that can corrode .. on new or old paint even on top coat paint when for example if i get a stone chip on the bonnet that gets a spray of Dynax-UC until i can sort out the chip in the paint problem.even use it on engines & their components that corrode +battery terminals .. list is endless.
Dynax UC is in a rattle can that works even upside down dries to a clear wax or you can buy it as a Black finish wax .. sticks like ..but will wipe off with white spirit & somehow dirt does not seem to stick onto the wax .. lovely stuff.

[Classic1]

My dad always cleaned the underside of his cars by driving them on stuble fields prior to oiling the underside brings them up a treat summer only

[Ronnie]

Prior to Gulf war 1, the MoD did some trials on about 6 or so oily/waxy treatments that would protect vehicles going down there as deck cargo. I presume that the Bay of Biscay was as good a test as anything......... The top stuff came out as Supertrol-001. I got and used a few litres to totally smother my then brand new Rover Cooper Sport...... You know the one......., made with special water soluble steel as used by Rover.

Joking apart. It's still like new and the deck cargo vehicles all made it there - and in most cases - back again! The mixture has changed slightly now but once it's on, it sticks like shit to a blanket and never dries. Easy to spray into every nook and cranny and vapourises as it does

As good as it is, it'll never be tough enough to save a Marina or an Ital

Bay of Biscay > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yCCPio ... oyrupeliab

[mini_surfari]

I’m not keen on any of these waxes or tar like products unless they’re going in cavities.

I always find road grime just ends up sticking to them and it builds up.

I would use something that goes off hard (raptor, 2k paint etc), and that way if gets covered in crap, you can just stick a pressure washer underneath and blast most of it off.

[Alex]

Having spoken to a few people who've used it, Lanoguard is (as I suspected) basically just watered down Waxoyl.

[Oneball]

I was thinking of something like this as the paint option. https://www.rust.co.uk/product/chassis- ... ack-black/

And Eastwood do an aerosol that’s good for inside of the chassis.

And then cavity wax.

The things that worry me about paint is are you just sealing rust in and can you cover everywhere.

Underseal wise ive used Dintrol on mine and the Ms cars and it looks good and isn’t tacky.

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[richardACS]

Do you think I should paint it prior to whatever treatment?

Perhaps the question might be - is preparation the key to good rust prevention? When one considers all the architecture; pipes, brackets, rounded objects, nuts, bolts, clips, hidden cavities that are held below the floor in what must be one of the most hostile areas of a car - peppered incessantly by water and grit...

The only effective method in my experience is to disassemble the entire area, blast away the dirt, rust and deteriorating underseal (watching out for additional spider rust creep), address any areas that might already be thinned by rust - i.e. cut away old metal and patch in with new, maybe replace rusted bracketry.

With such a prepared surface a blast with ally oxide media will roughen the surface to provide an excellent key for something like POR 15 or a two pack paint. This could be followed by a primer and then a good underseal that has an amount of 'give' in its formation to withstand future stone impact - This should then seal the floor. ( this has not addressed the components that make up all the running gear)

But this is a quite a project where either the car is work is turned on its side to gain decent access or a ramp for working from below but this becomes becomes hard, tiring work. That's why it might be a more cost/work effective procedure to just hold the current status quo and smother the area with a waxy easy to apply material?

[richardACS]

I was thinking of something like this as the paint option. https://www.rust.co.uk/product/chassis- ... ack-black/

And Eastwood do an aerosol that’s good for inside of the chassis.

And then cavity wax.

The things that worry me about paint is are you just sealing rust in and can you cover everywhere.

Underseal wise ive used Dintrol on mine and the Ms cars and it looks good and isn’t tacky.

IMG_4351.jpeg

This does look good after application but I'll bet there will be angles and corners that already have rust pockets and rust creep that will become evident in a very short time. Rust in my experience is I hate to use the term 'a cancer' it all needs to be removed to provide complete protection...

[MiNiKiN]

You might consider Lanoguard. Its a waxy by product from sheep and provides a good barrier

I second Richards suggestion. Lanoguard or FluidFilm would be my choice in your shoes.


https://www.fluidfilm.de/hodt-corrosion-protection/
Fluid film is available in different viscocities, so you can on one hand apply stuff that creeps into seams or thicker stuff that builds up on the underbelly (like undercoat, but stays semi-liquid). These suint-based greases also creep into rust and encapsule it to prevent further evil.

[Oneball]

I’ve had a go at cleaning a bit underneath with water, a brush and some Scotchbrite.

Before;

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After:

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So plan is to clean it like that and then try Lanoguard. I’ll add some photos after I’ve cleaned it. Most of what I thought was continuous surface rust seems to be dirt. So I think something “light” like that is a good choice.

[Polarsilver]

Rivets in the leaf springs & hanger .. give us a clue as to what is your Car?

[Oneball]

Rivets in the leaf springs & hanger .. give us a clue as to what is your Car?

They’re quite interesting, they’ve got a cloth interleaf and the thickness decreases along the length of each leaf.

1962 Mercury Monterey.

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[Peter Laidler]

If that were mine in that condition I'd be spraying the underside with a few gallons of used engine oil every, well......., oil change.

I cringe every time I look onto my engine bay (oiled from new Rover RCS-5) my heart sinks when I see this oily shite seeping from the seams and running down the AB and C posts and out of the sills and box sections. But I say to myself that you don't see a lot of rusty oil

[BigWig]

I have used Bilt Hamber products which have all been great, and from memory they are developed in-house. Another company worth speaking to is https://www.rust.co.uk - they also develop their own products. Including a durable two-pack style paint. They also treat cars at their workshop.