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Started the 1071 as it has been resting with its re-built engine & gearbox since 2019 .. My Problem Difficult to get 1st Gear also 2nd Gear irrespective if the Engine is Running or Not .. might be a tight built gearbox (Professional built) as it only done 35 miles since re-build .. today clutch seems to be very low in bite point .. this set up has all new Clutch component parts also has competition type Clutch Arm type with the wide pad .. I bleed the system & no air .. these days there are "Adjustable" Clutch Slave Cylinder Pushrods from the like of Minisport but not Minispares .. Question are these Adjustable Pushrods worth using ?

I think the adjustable rods are worth a go, it would be something else ticked off the list. Just like bending them like we used to do

Those adjustable things are when the rest is worn out and the cylinder it at the end of stroke, not needed when using new components. Have you checked the clutch master yoke/clevis and hole in pedal which is often over looked where pin goes through 3mm wear there multiples on the travel of stroke had the problem with my cars now perfect.pin was good , yoke worn, hole Egg shaped.

Yep, agree heartily with Rusty old S. Accumulative error due to wear is the biggest cause of clutch adjustment woes............ And so easily fixed too

……..if new components are to spec, they aren’t always these days.

Might be worth checking competition arm is to spec ?

Are you running a coil spring or diaphragm ?

There was 2 length pushrods, the change point appears to with the change from coil spring to diaphragm. If memory serves, the early 1071was coil sprung.

Is the clutch slave Gen or non Gen?

had to lengthen the pushrod on my non gen slave...

Get attractive assistant to push clutch pedal to the floor and hold. Peel back the rubber cover on the slave and observe where the slave piston is sitting.

Does it touch, or is very close to the retaining C clip?? If so you need a longer slave push rod (add a bit of welding rod onto the end). If not, then a longer push rod won’t buy you anything.

When I bleed the slave I always push the piston as far back as it will go. Otherwise there’s a good chance of a bubble of air sitting behind it that will just be bypassed by incoming fluid. No matter how much you bleed the bubble won’t be purged.

Cheers, Ian

While we're here talking about clutches and bleeding......, or bleedin' clutches, I trust that most forumers have now added a modified bleed extension to the slave cylinder. BEST modification ever fitted to a Mini and designed by one of our own too.....

Missed that one . What is a bleed extension, how does it work and what are the benefits?
D

If I was computer literate I'd head you straight to it. But, alas, I'm hopeless.

Can someone do the decent thing. It does feature fairly regularly though........., just a couple of months ago as I recall

This one ? http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?p=272982#p272982

That's the one. No rapped knuckles, dropped spanners or burned fingers or air lock in the rear of the cylinder as described above. David the Dearg ought to start selling them.

I painted my bleed adaptor engine colour and it's not noticeable.

Thanks guys , I will take a look.
David

This is my version of an adjustable clutch pushrod:

The extended clutch bleed pipe is a really good idea . My wife’s Spi suffered from a seized slave cylinder after sitting around a few years ago and they are not nice to replace due to the servo and ecu etc . As I am recommissioning it at the moment which will included fresh fluids so I may well make up a extended pipe and bleed nipple .
Thanks

i purchased from Minisport their adjustable Pushrod ( well made item) but had to cut the Slave Cyl; Boot to enable the new "thicker" adjustable rod to pass through..( why dont Miniport also sell me a suitable bore rubber boot with their adjustable push rod ? ) spent some time checking the clutch stops settings & swearing at my slave cyl; pull back Spring .. have no idea why that Spring needs to be that strong.. then fine tuned the adjustable push rod to trim the clutch pedal bite point.
Now Clutch is sorted.. However the 1st Gear car stationary selection is often baulked there is a need to select 2nd Gear to then be able to get into First Gear to pull away.. Gearbox is a professional built 1128 gearbox back in 2019 & now only just driven 25 miles in total .,so hope 1st Gear selection will loosen up as gearbox gets some miles .. any suggestions why 1st gear is difficult to select ?

Polarsilver wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 9:44 pm ... have no idea why that Spring needs to be that strong...

They don't. The ones available now are much stronger than the originals that I remember when I first started playing with Minis. At the moment I don't even have a spring on my Moke. After nearly breaking my wrist trying to fit the replacement one I got from Mini Spares, I found that it made the clutch pedal feel heavy, so I took it back off. I still need to chase up a nice light one.

As to why your gear selection is still a problem, I suspect its wear, or deteriorated hydraulics. You get to the stage of needing to lengthen the pushrod once the accumulated wear in all the contact and pivot points adds up, or the hydraulics start to pack up. Lengthening the push-rod can only gain you so much. In my case I replaced or re-conditioned everything from the pedal to the throwout bearing. In the end replacing the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder gained me the most, but after it was done the gear selection was so much better.

Tim

If I can't find an original spring, I use a throttle return spring - much weaker, but enough for the job.

Words of pure wisdom from Tassie Tim there (hope that you're well Tim). Accumulative error and worn parts are the cause of all (?) your clutch engagement woes. Adjustable pushrods are a palliative and not a cure - no matter how good and Gucci they look. The hydraulics will just push it out by a pre-determined distance, dictated by hydraulics and maths.

Dead right...... you don't need that heavy spring. For heavens sake....... The lever will return to its start position on its own. You need a spring that will just keep it there....., to take up the slack so to speak. A throttle/carburettor spring will do just fine

And while you're there, drain and flush that old hydraulic fluid and replace it with everlasting silicon brake fluid. And no, contrary to popular belief, you CANNOT compress it

It's simple school 5th form hydraulics/physics again. I'm just going to sit in a dark room and bang my head against a brick wall again.