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I'm about to start installing the new ball joints to the front of the Innocenti. I have lapped all in and have measured all of the shims, so well prep'd. Question is....
How stiff / resistant does the joint need to be when fully torqued up (dry) when setting up?
Thanks in advance

It should have none and ideally, have no play either, but up to 0.003" is acceptable.

Yep, agree with Spider Chris. Don''t forget that the spring loaded ball must be set up initially/dry WITHOUT the spring

This is what BMC Australia specified on initial assembly - breakaway torque 1 - 7 lb ft.

Doug, all the factory workshop manuals contradict that, they all have the following;-



I suspect that note is only referring to the lower spring loaded joint, after the spring has been fitted.

Don't forget to deepen the grove to allow the grease to pass the pin.

Otherwise you won't be able to pump any grease inside the Ball Joint...

GOOD advice FanFan.....

If you don't mind me expanding on that good suggestion, can I slightly re-word it to say that deepening the groove slightly allows the grease to fully grease the articulating ball and socket as it moves in all planes.

Thanks for the timely reminder.

Spider wrote: ↑Fri Jul 14, 2023 6:05 pmI suspect that note is only referring to the lower spring loaded joint, after the spring has been fitted.

The upper ball joint has the same statement.

I don't have the knowledge to support or reject what's in the drawings, just posting for the benefit of others, and discussion.

I suppose both approaches are probably correct, but when the repair is in the field, it leaves less to interpretation to give a clearance figure.

Back in the day we used to just put a ring spanner on it and give it a wiggle which is a crude version of the break away torque….

Fanfaniracing wrote: ↑Sat Jul 15, 2023 11:19 am Don't forget to deepen the grove to allow the grease to pass the pin.

Otherwise you won't be able to pump any grease inside the Ball Joint...

Lately, I have been using the 'OEM types' from Mini Classic in Japan. These not only have a great greasing flat ground on them, they seem to be at least as good as the original factory joints. They are dear, but from where I sit, there's no other option available now days.

As a side note, the 'Maintenance Free' joints on offer from a few suppliers now, are junk. They don't nearly have enough swivel angle and have a very short life, possibly as a result of the lack of angular movement.

winabbey wrote: ↑Sat Jul 15, 2023 12:51 pm

Spider wrote: ↑Fri Jul 14, 2023 6:05 pmI suspect that note is only referring to the lower spring loaded joint, after the spring has been fitted.

The upper ball joint has the same statement.

I don't have the knowledge to support or reject what's in the drawings, just posting for the benefit of others, and discussion.

Setting them with any tightness only wipes the grease from them with each movement. I've seen this from those who set them as such.

Many thanks all for your help.
Passenger side hub complete, dimmed and greased ready to go. Both balljoints are stiff but can be moved by the hand.
Drivers side less successful I’m afraid as the thread on the hub for the ball joint is knackered and it accepting the nut, tried cleaning, thread filing etc.. to no avail.

Looks like on the hunt for a replacement drivers side hub to refurb!