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Hi all,

I hope this is the correct part of the forum to post this.. I'm just about to embark on the restoration of some 10" Cooper S steel wheels which I had on one of my Mini's back in the 90's. They're in pretty good condition as I restored them fairly well back in the day, so really just need a refresh, I was planning on getting a local powder coaters to lightly blast them back to bare metal for me. But then am a bit torn as to whether to get them to powder coat them or whether to do the honours myself with some high build primer followed by rattle can topcoat.

I'm looking for an original period finish, which I feel will be achieved best by the paint really. I was just wondering if anyone could advise the best match for the original 'old english white' colour. Previously, I think I used a cream which was pretty close, but it's so long ago I can't remember the manufacturer of the paint. Is the OEW rattle can supplied by Bull Motif Spares a good match?

Cheers! Ed.

I'd not powder coat them myself, but paint after a good blasting or dipping. WT3 is the paint code for Old English white, but be aware that pre- 65 it was a lighter shade, and is more like NNX code... not that you'd notice unless the car itself was OEW to compare too.

I'd go to a local paint shop and get it made up as it is often cheaper, and you know if you go back with the old can can you get pretty much the same colour.

If you are using build filler be sure it is bone dry as it has a habit of shrinking back if laid on too thick. Consider a good etch primer for the first coat too.

Thanks for the reply and tips, very much appreciated. You've helped confirm my feelings about powder coating, I was worrying it wouldn't quite get into the area where the centre of the wheel meets the outer rim which is why I was erring to paint as I'd done previously. A good idea to get the paint made up by a local paintshop, and thanks also for the codes, now I'm just wondering which would best suit use on a '65 car.

Thanks also for the note on primer, I'd been considering either the Bilt Hamber 'Electrox' or 'Etchweld' for the initial coat to give good protection.

I have just recalled a tip from when I last painted ours on my wife's car - nearly 40 years ago!!

If there is any hint of rust, remove and treat it of course, but warm the metal a little first. Once cleaned and dry, warm the seams again and all metal joins before applying primer. I think it helps to expand and open up the metal slightly. Anyway, ours had some rust back then, and it hasn't come back.

If you're going to spray the wheels yourself, might I suggest that after you've done everything else, you hang them from the roof beam with some string, outside facing upwards. Spin the wheel on the string and allow it to rotate slowly THEN spray the wheel. Instead of you walking around the wheel to get an even coal, the wheel rotates while you just direct the can or gun. Good, even coat all round. On the outer face , inside the edges of the vent holes (S wheels) and inside the rim too.

When you mentioned S wheels, do you mean S wheels or reverse rims - suitable for Cooper type brakes. All the same with regards painting though!

Also, remember to mask, or remove the paint from the wheel-nut tapers..

If I remember correctly, LDV Sherpas when through a period of the wheels falling off.
Which they traced back to these surfaces being left painted...

I painted a set just using Rustoleum etch primer then acrylic top coat from a spray can… turned out pretty good.

First top coat was done before I mounted the tyres, then an extra coat afterwards to tidy things up.

Especially on S rims with the extra round cooling vent holes, be careful not to lay the paint on too thick, else it can ‘run’ through those holes. Better to paint the rear face first and let that tack off, before painting the front.

To prevent running and overspray through the holes just mask them up from the rear. When I sprayed these Minilites I masked up all the holes and save myself the cost of painting the insides gold as well and avoided loads of overspray.

As for rotating the wheel, I suggest getting a lazy susan or cake decorators turntable, ideal for putting on a bench and turning the wheel to get an even coat. Or if you are doing lots of wheels get an old potters wheel.

Wow! Thanks all for the kind replies and tips.

AndyPen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 15, 2021 9:13 am I have just recalled a tip from when I last painted ours on my wife's car - nearly 40 years ago!!

If there is any hint of rust, remove and treat it of course, but warm the metal a little first. Once cleaned and dry, warm the seams again and all metal joins before applying primer. I think it helps to expand and open up the metal slightly. Anyway, ours had some rust back then, and it hasn't come back.

Thanks for the heating tip, never thought of that. I've worked out that it's 26 years since I restored them 1st time around. Unfortunately they did spend some time languishing outdoors at my Mothers house for a few years, but miraculously the paint and prep I did on them all those years ago has held up pretty well and there's only a couple of spots of very light surface rust on a couple of them. I moved them into a dry shed about 5 years ago which I think helped.

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Wed Sep 15, 2021 10:30 am When you mentioned S wheels, do you mean S wheels or reverse rims - suitable for Cooper type brakes. All the same with regards painting though!

Ah yes, they are reverse rims, so not technically 'S' wheels. They're only going to be fitted to the Cooper on a very occasional basis, as we prefer the car on it's original 3.5's really. But I thought it would be a fun project nonetheless to resurrect the old reverse rims as spares if we need them... like when I'm repainting the 3.5's, fitting tyres etc.

iain1967s wrote: ↑Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:30 am I painted a set just using Rustoleum etch primer then acrylic top coat from a spray can… turned out pretty good.

First top coat was done before I mounted the tyres, then an extra coat afterwards to tidy things up.

Especially on S rims with the extra round cooling vent holes, be careful not to lay the paint on too thick, else it can ‘run’ through those holes. Better to paint the rear face first and let that tack off, before painting the front.

Looking good!

surfblue63 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 15, 2021 12:03 pm As for rotating the wheel, I suggest getting a lazy susan or cake decorators turntable, ideal for putting on a bench and turning the wheel to get an even coat. Or if you are doing lots of wheels get an old potters wheel.

Cheers for that tip, last time I just ran round them if my memory serves...

I think to actually rotate the wheel would make good sense, and we happen to have a potters wheel in the workshop, which is handy!!