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Has anyone used any of the coatings to repair a tank, my rh tank has started leaking and it has rusted through at the base,I can buy a repro one if they are any good, but I have seen some chemical repair kits at frost, not sure if they are worth the hassle,
Also is there an option for a professional repair or is it likely to cost more than a new tank

Thanks

I used the Frost repair liner stuff on a MG/PA many years ago seemed to work for the three years we had that car .. flogged the Car to Japan so no idea how long the Frost stuff Lasted.. MS Tanks are reported to be very good & as its Fuel my choice would be replace the Tank & sod originality

Thanks, that’s the way I am thinking, as it could have been far worse, I just had a smell of petrol in the boot and whilst looking for it found the bottom of tank wet, have drained tanks and removed the rh tank for now, at least I can use the car by blocking the feed to rh tank as have a show next weekend, glad I found the issue before it caused any damage, I know tanks can be welded but I haven’t any experience of this and don’t fancy taking the chance.

Depending on how extensive the corrosion is you could use tank putty. I have used this to repair pinholes and once sanded down and painted is an invisible repair.

I had a split in my Traveller tank migged up (small plate added) by a local engineering shop.

He swished the tank out with some metho (I think you might call it paraffin?) then some soapy water and left it in the sun for a few days to dry.

He migged on the small patch, pressure tested it and dealt with a couple of pin holes. Didn't cost much at all...

Cheers, Ian

It is an absolute doddle to fix pjn holes in a fuel tank. As I have said on this forum before and more recently in CooperWorld, the monthly magazine of the Mini Cooper Register. In short,:
1) Take tank out, seal filler, air vent and fuel outlet.
2) Pressurise it to identify pin hole. De-gas tank using exhaust gas from exhaust for 15 mts
3) clean area of pin hole. tin and flux area. Do same with copper or brass patch.
4) lay plate over hole, play flame over patch.
Time taken = a few hours. Cost: 2 hrs labour plus £5 or so for materials

That's all there is to it. Seen it done, helped do it, done it myself with large puncture hole too.

It's a bit like hydrolastic. DON'T LET IT FRIGHTEN YOU. Make sure tank is fully degassed and we found that 15 mts of non flammable and cheap exhaust gas flow does it.

One here I just cut the bottom out and Tig welded more steel in place, the seams tend to swell but I have not had one leak on the seam, normally the flat section inside of the seam, you can also clean out the tank completely when you repair it this way. I drain and wash out then fill with Argon, had no issues
I am unsure re tank sealing products of late but a chap who sprays a lot of motorcycle tanks has had a lot of his customers use stuff to seal tanks, he's then painted them, customer has then used them only for the paint to lift on pitted areas. I think the ethanol content of modern petrol softened some of the sealers.
Also had a Lotus Elan S2 130 where sealer had been used and it came off in sheets and blocked the pickup up solid, we put a new alloy tank in to solve this

MGB and GT owners have been having the tops sections of their pin-holed tanks repaired since the dawn of time. If you chemically clean the inside of your mini fuel tanks, test them then patch tin and solder and patch them you won't need sealant. As good as it is (?) sealants are a palliative and not a cure. British bike owners know all about sweat-patching leaky fuel tanks too

I used the Frost products and I can recommend to use them.
Bit of a faff doing it, but it sealed the tank so well I did the other one just to be on the safe side.
Do it slowly and I found the best way to "aerate" the tank was to stick the end of a hoover in the neck...worked a treat.