mk1-forum.net

Posted: **Fri May 28, 2021 12:53 am**

I have read several posts and am still confused - over subframe vs under subframe.

So.. specifically for my WET 1966 “S” how is the cable routed on the rear end.

Pictures please.

Posted: **Fri May 28, 2021 4:48 am**

Early 68 car here, showing the two brackets holding the cable to the subframe.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 3:28 am**

Thanks for the picture TECH396.

Anyone care to make a case for the cable going over the subframe?

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 3:37 am**

rogerotto66s wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 3:28 amAnyone care to make a case for the cable going over the subframe?

Easier to remove and replace rear subframe.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 6:28 am**

I'm not sure how they did them in the UK, but all (most ?) of our locally produced Minis, they fitted all the pipework and the battery cable before both subframes went in.

As Winabbey mentioned, it's one thing less to sort when removing a subframe + it's a little less exposed at a particularly vulnerable point.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 9:22 am**

Just a minute chaps........... Surely it makes it MORE difficult to remove the sub-frame with the batt cable running UNDER the sub frame (as shown). You can't just pull the cable through the hole in the boot floor because it's got the all-in-one cast battery lug on and won't go through the hole. Or is this a case of me missing something?

I say that Rogers car is correct and that the cable is there for two reasons. A) to prevent the cable chaffing against anything on a convoluted route around and over the top of the sub frame and B) to sod the sub-frame replacer about while he's setting about changing the rusty rear sub-frame. Because as it is, he's got to pull the cable out from the front. That's OK if it's got a floor button start, but not a barrel of laughs if you've got to undo the cable from the key-start solenoid.

Anyway, that's the total sum of my Monday thinking!!!!!

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 9:55 am**

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 9:22 am Just a minute chaps........... Surely it makes it MORE difficult to remove the sub-frame with the batt cable running UNDER the sub frame (as shown). You can't just pull the cable through the hole in the boot floor because it's got the all-in-one cast battery lug on and won't go through the hole. Or is this a case of me missing something?

I say that Rogers car is correct and that the cable is there for two reasons. A) to prevent the cable chaffing against anything on a convoluted route around and over the top of the sub frame and B) to sod the sub-frame replacer about while he's setting about changing the rusty rear sub-frame. Because as it is, he's got to pull the cable out from the front. That's OK if it's got a floor button start, but not a barrel of laughs if you've got to undo the cable from the key-start solenoid.

Anyway, that's the total sum of my Monday thinking!!!!!

Peter - mate, you need to clean your spectacles. Read the question and answers again.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 10:56 am**

Got that Doug and have cleaned my goggles. I got the impression that the Q wasn't about the BEST positioning but more about WHY. Anyway, that's my Monday contribution to the Forum. But in any case, I blame everything that goes wrong in my life to the Australian influences in it!!

Have a great weekend

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 11:13 am**

I have a car with that routing as well. Isn't there another discussion on this? Pre Hydro I suspect they were on the top of the subframe. I certain recall my annoyance replacing a subframe, and ended up cutting the battery lug off. Easy enough to fit a modern one back on

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 1:01 pm**

Peter Laidler wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 10:56 am Got that Doug and have cleaned my goggles. I got the impression that the Q wasn't about the BEST positioning but more about WHY. Anyway, that's my Monday contribution to the Forum. But in any case, I blame everything that goes wrong in my life to the Australian influences in it!!

Have a great weekend

Sorry, Peter. On reflection I'm guessing you were talking about the original question, not the later one, so my flippant comment (meant to be lighthearted) was misdirected. I apologise.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 1:28 pm**

Hey Doug, no ofence even remotely taken. Regards, Pete the Pom

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 1:36 pm**

The perils of social media. Wouldn't have happened had we been discussing this face to face.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 3:48 pm**

Thanks for the excellent discussion.

So... what is the verdict for my wet 1966 Austin Cooper S - OVER or UNDER.

I just installed the rear subframe and placed the cable OVER.
I have not installed the front subframe yet so it is not too late to pull the cable back and go UNDER.

Thanks all.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 4:25 pm**

SEEMS like it's UNDER for originality but OVER for convenience next time you change the sub frame!

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 8:21 pm**

rogerotto66s wrote: ↑Mon May 31, 2021 3:28 am Thanks for the picture TECH396.

Anyone care to make a case for the cable going over the subframe?

The photo I shared earlier is from a low mile unrestored car.
Personally I can't see going over the subframe to be a viable option. The battery cable runs in a steel channel from the shifter area, then to the heelboard. If it were to get routed over the subframe, It would need to take a very sharp bend at the heelboard, and then be subject to chafing between heelboard and subframe.
In my opinion, the Battery cable was installed after the rear subframe was fitted. Starting at the battery first because the "Hat type" bonded terminal was too large to go through the Boot floor hole if fitted last. The solenoid end was a much smaller eyelet, and was also routed under the subframe at the front. I can only speak for the North american Cars, as they're the only ones I've serviced. I can dig up some more images if it helps.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 8:43 pm**

This was discussed a few years ago, the early dry cars up to '64 had a shorter cable channel which allowed the battery cable to go over the subframe alongside the brake line. When the hydro was introduced the cable channel went the full length of the tunnel and the cable went underneath the subframe and was attached with the two P clips.
More info and pictures here.
http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=3& ... le#p174650

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 11:38 pm**

Seems the terms OVER and UNDER are now adding to the confusion!

My cable channel runs the full length of the tunnel.

I will install the subframe first and then route the battery cable.
This should then be similar to the first picture posted by TECH396.

It would be nice if the cable hole in the boot were large enough to accommodate the cable terminal!

Thanks all.

Posted: **Tue Jun 01, 2021 1:16 pm**

The extra tabs that Bob points out are an extra giveaway I recall

Posted: **Fri Jun 04, 2021 8:47 pm**

Here is my cable routed properly for my 66’”S”.

A99ECA73-9094-4E59-81C2-E46E03BF2C5D.jpeg

Posted: **Wed Jun 16, 2021 3:18 am**

Just had to drop my subframe.
Guess what?

I had to pull the battery cable from the front and out of the cable channel and remove the two clips holding it to the subframe.
Would have been easier if I could have pulled the cable out of the battery box and removed the two subframe clips.
Has anyone increased the size of the hole in the bottom of the battery box and used a larger grommet?
Are there any downsides to this?

mk1-forum.net

Battery Cable Routing

Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing

Re: Battery Cable Routing